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Routes in Gold Star Canyon

Bouncing Betty Route T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Cirqus Voltaire T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Factotum T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Ride the Lightning T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c C1+
Skin Industries T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Uncle Sam S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Unknown/?CCC? Tower T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
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Type: Trad
FA: ???
Page Views: 306 total, 6/month
Shared By: Paul S on Jun 8, 2013
Admins: Jesse Zacher, Jared LaVacque, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

The crack I took started out as OW that led to a bombay chimney, after which was crack climbing on junk rock to the top. Getting over the roof in the bombay involved avoiding some potentially very dangerous rock that could pull out.

On the S/SW side of the tower, there was some fixed wire, the same kind as found on those CCC/Otto routes scattered around The Monument that they used to have more direct access points to the rim. On the top of the tower, there was an old homemade tube chock, that when I gave it a tug, broke the surrounding rock around it! If anyone knows anything more about the history of this tower, I'd be really interested in hearing about it.

Location

This tower is right behind Bottle Top Tower (look for Bouncing Betty Route on mp.com for directions). Do the same approach as for that tower. As you're hiking up the gully to the backside of Bottle Top, this tower, with the crack I took to the top, will be obvious. Once at the base of the tower from this point, scramble in the chimney to the left and you'll be able to see the old wire hanging down. It's possible to traverse out to it and join that route to the top. I'm not sure what it would entail, but it'd be interesting!

Protection

A single set of Camalots from 0.3-6 and a single 60 m rope will get the job done.

Photos

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Jesse Zacher
Grand Junction, Co
Jesse Zacher   Grand Junction, Co  
For some historical information: during the war, families were given different flags depending on if their son(s) were alive or dead. You were given a Gold Star flag for those who died in Combat. In order to honor the fallen, a giant Gold Star flag was hung between the entrance to Goldstar Canyon. To do this, they suspended a large chunk of solid wire across the gap. One side being secured to this Tower and the other side to the cliff line and tower group on the West side of the canyon. I still don't quite know how they got to the Tower to fix the wire! Jul 15, 2014
Mickey Guziak
Grand Junction
 
Mickey Guziak   Grand Junction
 
Total choss and scary spinning anchors in soft rock. May 31, 2014