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Routes in Gold Star Canyon
|Bouncing Betty Route T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a|
|Cirqus Voltaire T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13|
|Factotum T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a|
|Ride the Lightning T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c C1+|
|Skin Industries T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c|
|Uncle Sam S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13|
|Unknown/?CCC? Tower T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13|
|Page Views:||306 total, 6/month|
|Shared By:||Paul S on Jun 8, 2013|
|Admins:||Jesse Zacher, Jared LaVacque, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionThe crack I took started out as OW that led to a bombay chimney, after which was crack climbing on junk rock to the top. Getting over the roof in the bombay involved avoiding some potentially very dangerous rock that could pull out.
On the S/SW side of the tower, there was some fixed wire, the same kind as found on those CCC/Otto routes scattered around The Monument that they used to have more direct access points to the rim. On the top of the tower, there was an old homemade tube chock, that when I gave it a tug, broke the surrounding rock around it! If anyone knows anything more about the history of this tower, I'd be really interested in hearing about it.
LocationThis tower is right behind Bottle Top Tower (look for Bouncing Betty Route on mp.com for directions). Do the same approach as for that tower. As you're hiking up the gully to the backside of Bottle Top, this tower, with the crack I took to the top, will be obvious. Once at the base of the tower from this point, scramble in the chimney to the left and you'll be able to see the old wire hanging down. It's possible to traverse out to it and join that route to the top. I'm not sure what it would entail, but it'd be interesting!
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