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Routes in Gold Star Canyon

Bouncing Betty Route T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Cirqus Voltaire T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Factotum T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Ride the Lightning T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c C1+
Skin Industries T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Uncle Sam S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Unknown/?CCC? Tower T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, Aid, 300 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 831 total · 9/month
Shared By: Jesse Zacher on Oct 1, 2010
Admins: Jesse Zacher, Jared LaVacque, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

Great positioning! Free climbing, aid, a little choss, great exposure, and some good rock. A good outing for sure.

First pitch: is a some loose offwidth to a cool stem between wall and pillar to gain the Ledge. (130 feet)

Second pitch: Some C1+ off the belay to a widening crack, switch crack systems as a crack appears on your right. Watch out for a loose section midway up. 5.10 offwidth to a stance/ledge (70 feet)

Third pitch: Place a piece high up off the belay and pendulum right to a crack system. Climb hands up an ever widening crack to the base of the roof. Grovel up some wideness through the roof. Continue up the wide until a small ledge and a short corner to the top. (5.10+, 110 feet)

All of this could go free fairly easily.

Location

This route lies on the opposite wall as Factotum. After hiking up the trail on the right side of the granite drainage, keep trending towards the right wall of the Gold Star Canyon. On a clean section of the wall, the large pillar is obvious as is the crack systems that split the wall. Start on the left side of the detached pillar.

Protection

A double set of cams from really small to #6. It depends on how much you want to aid, how much you want to free. Small/ micro nuts for the first bit on the 2nd pitch. Two double rope raps from the top gets you down.

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