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Routes in Gold Star Canyon

Bouncing Betty Route T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Cirqus Voltaire T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Factotum T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Ride the Lightning T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c C1+
Skin Industries T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Uncle Sam S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Unknown/?CCC? Tower T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 300 ft, 3 pitches, Grade III
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,069 total, 13/month
Shared By: Airbiscuit on May 3, 2011
Admins: Jesse Zacher, Jared LaVacque, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This is a stunning, full length line hidden on the front bench of The Monument. The second pitch is 4 stars for 5.11 and will test even the most seasond desert rat.

P1: Climb the chimney and short pillar to the right of the main line avoiding the knifeblade crack that marks the start of this "line of weakness". Traverse the chossy ledge passing fixed gear and arch up and left aiming for the corner proper and 5.8 climbing to a decent ledge. (5.9 PG13) 70' +/-.

P2: The sweetness begins Indian Creek windgate meets all suitors as you worm up the 5.8 chinmey (protects with medium gear) to a stance below the stair stepped roof. Pull the roof (5.11 solid) and smile at the 50' of laser cut corner above that gradualy goes from #4 Friends to #4 Camalots. Climb up and into the pod and rest. (5.11) 100' +/-.

P3: A sweet pitch! and a great finish on what appears to be wide but is actually mostly hands and tight hands climbing with a great finish (exciting) that clocks in at a surprisingly moderate grade! (5.9) 70' +/-.

Descend from solid anchors in three raps with a 70 meter rope.

This is a good climb and has seen couple of ascents over the past several years. I wouldn't hesitate to put it up there with the best The Monument has to offer.

Location

The Skin Industries Wall is about a 10 minute hike past the Irishman's Temple. Follow the upper bench trail around to the North into the next cove, before you drop down to the main Lower Momument Canyon. Skin Industries follows the obvious, huge, right-leaning corner in the center of the wall.

Protection

Singles from #0 - #6 Friend / triples in the #1 - #4 Camalot size / nuts / long runners / seventy meter rope.

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