Avg: 3 from 3 votes
Routes in Gold Star Canyon
|Bouncing Betty Route T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a|
|Cirqus Voltaire T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13|
|Factotum T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a|
|Ride the Lightning T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c C1+|
|Skin Industries T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c|
|Uncle Sam S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13|
|Unknown/?CCC? Tower T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13|
|Type:||Trad, 300 ft, 3 pitches, Grade III|
|Page Views:||1,069 total, 13/month|
|Shared By:||Airbiscuit on May 3, 2011|
|Admins:||Jesse Zacher, Jared LaVacque, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionThis is a stunning, full length line hidden on the front bench of The Monument. The second pitch is 4 stars for 5.11 and will test even the most seasond desert rat.
P1: Climb the chimney and short pillar to the right of the main line avoiding the knifeblade crack that marks the start of this "line of weakness". Traverse the chossy ledge passing fixed gear and arch up and left aiming for the corner proper and 5.8 climbing to a decent ledge. (5.9 PG13) 70' +/-.
P2: The sweetness begins Indian Creek windgate meets all suitors as you worm up the 5.8 chinmey (protects with medium gear) to a stance below the stair stepped roof. Pull the roof (5.11 solid) and smile at the 50' of laser cut corner above that gradualy goes from #4 Friends to #4 Camalots. Climb up and into the pod and rest. (5.11) 100' +/-.
P3: A sweet pitch! and a great finish on what appears to be wide but is actually mostly hands and tight hands climbing with a great finish (exciting) that clocks in at a surprisingly moderate grade! (5.9) 70' +/-.
Descend from solid anchors in three raps with a 70 meter rope.
This is a good climb and has seen couple of ascents over the past several years. I wouldn't hesitate to put it up there with the best The Monument has to offer.