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Routes in The Dragon's Lair

Butt Dragon V9 7C
Desolation of Smaug, The V7 7A+
Double Dragon V3 6A
Electric Body V11 8A
Game of Thrones V9-10 7C+
Let Sleeping Dragons Lie V5 6C
Lockjaw V4 6B
Maw, The V5 6C
Zendetta V8-9 7B+
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Type: Boulder, 15 ft
FA: Sean Denny
Page Views: 355 total · 4/month
Shared By: Sean Denny on Jan 14, 2012
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Start sitting with a left hand crimp and right hand pinch. Pull up into the large hueco. Work your way left and out of the cave with the use of some decent intermediates and a large move to a great hold. do a few compression moves to get a bit of height and then head left to establish on the low angled face and top out with jugs.

Location

The Dragon's Lair area. There is no real trail down there yet, but stay tuned for specific directions. It is a cluster of boulders that forms a fairly large cave. If standing at the top of the Uvula, look straight out to the ocean. The Dragons Lair is 100 yards down that way and is marked by a tree coming out from between two very large boulders.
The Maw is on the North West side of the uphill boulder in the cave.

Protection

Pads and a spotter

Photos

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Tim King
  V5
Tim King  
  V5
Just did an ultra low start to this one.

Go deep, deep, deeper into the cave. Find two bomber underclings where the groove peters out, and make some awesome long reaches and plenty of toe hook trickery and blind holds out the steep roof to join into the start of The Maw.

One of the most butt draggery climbs EVER, but it's an awesome, sustained sandstone roof climb, with unique holds and moves. Keeps you on your toes, and requires some decent endurance. If you work out beta well it doesn't even feel that cramped.

Not sure about naming situation, but we were calling it The Butt Dragon (for obvious reasons), aka Humbaba the Terrible (V8/9)
Dec 28, 2014

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