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Routes in Lower Heart

Cold Shoulder V3 6A
Directly Direct V4+ 6B+
Heartbreaker V6 7A
Heartwarmer V6 7A
Heartwood Direct V3 6A
Lower Heart V0 4
Missing in Action V7- 7A+
Nosey Heart V0 4
Right Loadie V1 5
Static Heart V3 6A
Type: Boulder, 10 ft
FA: Chuck Boyd, late '70s
Page Views: 1,286 total · 17/month
Shared By: M LaViolette Jr. on Jan 8, 2012
Admins: M Sprague, Joe M.

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Description

Good sit start, two big moves lead to the top. Start on twin crimps below a square flake/crimp thing. Pull up to the flake with your right hand, match, then pull hard and make the big move up and left to a flat jug, top out.

Location

On the right side of the boulder, about five feet right of Nosey Heart arete.

Protection

A few pads and a spotter to help keep you off the tree.

Photos

Jake D.
Northeast
Jake D.   Northeast
Make sure to pull DOWN not out on the flake. Jan 8, 2012
M Sprague
New England
 
M Sprague   New England  
 
FA - Chuck Boyd, late '70s Jan 21, 2012
Derek Jf
Northeast
  V3
Derek Jf   Northeast
  V3
Tried in the warmer season to be shot off the start crimps repeatedly! cold season goes 1st go. all hail friction!! Nov 25, 2013
Graham O.  
 
I love this climb. One of my favorites in the woods. Everyone should do this thing! Jul 15, 2016
Jack Ritzenberg  
  V3
Phenomenal climb, must do for Lincoln Woods. Nov 13, 2016
I don't know how much life is left in that key flake hold. This thing flexes like crazy. Would it be kosher to reinforce it with glue before it comes off? Apr 10, 2017
Joe M.

  V3
Joe M.    
  V3
It has been reinforced several times already, so I would say yes. Just be sure to do a good, clean job (no one should be able to tell that it has been glued). Apr 20, 2017

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