Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Engelhoerner

Gagelfänger 6b S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Naebel und Chempae 6a S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 1200 ft, 12 pitches, Grade IV
FA: Kaspar Ochsner
Page Views: 488 total, 7/month
Shared By: Colin Winter on Dec 27, 2011
Admins: Dan Flynn

You & This Route

1 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:

     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:

-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick


An amazing sport climb with a distinctly alpine feel. Very interesting for the grade, and remarkably homogeneous in its entirety. Particularly in the upper half of the route, it is one stellar pitch after another. To boot, there's a proper top-out with incredible views in all directions.

If the grade suits, and you have one day at the Engelhoerner, this is the route to go for.

Pitches go at 5a, 5b, 6a, 5c+, 3a, 4c, 5c+, 6a, 5c, 6a, 5c+, 6a.


The approach and descent are significantly longer and more involved than other sport routes in the area, and one would definitely not want to be caught in bad weather on this route.

From the hut, follow the trail into the large cirque, passing the primary sport climbing area on your left. Just before reaching a very flat plateau deep in the cirque, break left on a faint trail and up a slope towards three gullies. The gully on the righ provides access to a large, partially grassy terrace above. Though only a 3a, it is nevertheless advisable to rope up at the base of the gully, and use a sling or two for protection while ascending. About two-thirds of the way up the gully, break right and look for a bolt. A bit further to the right, there is a belay anchor. From the anchor, scramble up the grassy/rocky terrace, veering slightly to the right, towards the massive southwest face of the Vorderspitz. The route begins up a west-facing ramp underneath the south/southwest face of the Vorderspitz.

Descent is by foot, with several abseils along the way. From the top, follow cairns and a faint trail down the back (north) side, veering west. There is some scrambling involved, but it is not exposed. After losing some vertical, aim for a relatively large block on the west ridge, where there is an abseil anchor. Abseil 20 meters, then continue walking/scrambling down in a west/northwest direction towards the saddle between the Vorderspitz and the Gross Simelistock. From the saddle, abseil 2x20 meters to access the large terrace above the gullies. Scramble back down to the belay anchor above the gully, and abseil back down into the cirque.


The route is fully bolted. No additional gear is required.