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Routes in Engelhoerner

Gagelfänger 6b S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Naebel und Chempae 6a S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 1200 ft, 13 pitches, Grade IV
FA: Kaspar Ochsner
Page Views: 332 total, 5/month
Shared By: Colin Winter on Dec 27, 2011
Admins: Dan Flynn

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An excellent, popular day climb, divided into three sections by two intermediate terraces.

The lower wall has five pitches: 4b, 5c, 5a, 6a and 3c. It is possible to skip the first and last pitch, and one doesn't miss much.

Upon gaining the first terrace, make a straight shot for the base of the next wall. This next wall offers the best climbing of the route - each of the six pitches (5a, 5c, 6b, 6a. 5c+, 5c+) is of very high quality for the grade, on extremely compact stone. The further up one goes, the steeper and better the holds. The crux 6b pitch is defined by several meters of technical face climbing on very small holds in extremely compact rock. At the end of the 11th pitch, traverse to the right along a terrace to access the final two pitches and summiit of the Klein Simeler.


The route is in the primary area, about 10 minutes walk from the hut. The route is marked at the base.

Descent is by abseil, via an abseilpiste from the end of the route down to the large terrace, and again at the edge of the terrace using the belay from pitch five.


Fully bolted, no additional gear required.