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Routes in Winterstock South face

Mangolyto 6a S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Schindlewäg 5c+ T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Schwoabaweg 5c T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 750 ft, 7 pitches, Grade III
FA: unknown
Page Views: 45 total, 1/month
Shared By: Colin Winter on Dec 26, 2011
Admins: Dan Flynn

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Description

A nice trad route on the south face of the Winterstock.

A topo can be found in the SAC guidebook for the region.

Pitch one (4a): ascend a corner and, just after a small bulge, bust left to the anchor of Mangolyto. A worthy alternative, if you don't mind a bit of rope drag, is to ascend a giant flake several meters to the right of the corner, then traverse left underneath the bulge (estimated 5a).

Pitche two (5c): follow the bolted line of Mangolyto.

Pitch three (5c): move left around the corner from the belay, then follow a steep ramp up and to the left. At the bolt, head straight up through an athletic vertical stretch of rock. Belay from the comfortable terrace above (or carry on with the short fourth pitch, but beware of rope drag).

Pitch four (5a): traverse left and up underneath a large bulge to gain a comfortable terrace above. Somewhat mossy.

Pitch five (5a): up and slightly right on easy terrain.

Pitch six (5b): head up a corner for several meters, then traverse left into another corner, then up and left again into a third corner system that offers brilliant climbing up to the next belay.

Pitch seven (5c+): a short pitch, continuing up the corner from the previous pitch. The crux (which has one ring bolt) is the bulge immediately above the anchor.

Location

Look for the very prominent flake on the south face, to the left of the marked "Bello i Impossibile" route.

Descent is by abseil (2x50m ropes).

Protection

The belays have been re-equipped (for the first and second pitch, use the anchors for the neighboring Mangolyto route.

Except in the third and in the final pitch, which each have one bolt at the respective crux, and the second pitch, which is fully bolted, the route is clean. A full set of cams and stoppers is recommended. The line gobbles gear.

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