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Routes in Winterstock South face

Mangolyto 6a S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Schindlew├Ąg 5c+ T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Schwoabaweg 5c T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Elevation: 8,871 ft
GPS: 46.619, 8.462 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 874 total, 12/month
Shared By: Colin Winter on Dec 25, 2011
Admins: Dan Flynn
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Description

The south face of the Winterstock is a wonderfully tranquil, secluded venue, some distance from the popular hiking trails. It tends to be less crowded than other areas in the Furka region, perhaps due to the limited itinerary.

The rock is impeccable granite, solid from bottom to top.

The face gets sun fairly early in the morning, and stays in the sun until mid/late afternoon.

Topos for some routes can be found in the plaisir-ost guidebook, and for others in the SAC guidebook.

Getting There

The approach begins from Tiefenbach, on the east side of the the Furka pass. Park there or pay a nominal fee for use of a former military road that will gain you some elevation and cut your approach time by 15-20 minutes. There is a clear trailhead for the approach to the hut.

To reach Winterstock, one can take the approach to the hut and then proceed on a trail behind the hut to the east, but it is quicker to head east at the parking place on the old military road and then proceed north in a straight shot towards Winterstock (red/white trail).

Whether approaching on the trail from the west, behind the hut, or the trail from the south, at the point that the two connect there is a trail for the "Lochbergluecke" marked with blue/white stripes, which heads north through a boulder field. After a short elevation gain (extensive trail markings), a plateau with fantastic ponds and streams presents itself. The blue/white trail continues to the east/northeast. Leave this trail and continue north across the small plateau and up the final slope (faint yellow markings). Cut left midway up the final slope to access the south face. The routes begin from a huge, grassy terrace, which is most commonly accessed by a short scramble (marked with cairns), but can also be accessed from below (1 easy pitch, many variations possible).

The approach from the military road is around 90 minutes.

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