Ruta Normal

The original summit route ascended, finally, in 1943 after Pablo Fisher and Gustavo Kammerer overcame the final 40-foot slab guarding the summit. They initially spent an hour-and-a-half trying to throw an iron hook over the top, but eventually resorted to drilling seven one-inch metal rods- the holes of which are still visible as you climb past and clip the modern bolts protecting the steep, thin face.

Beautiful, steep granite, with nice crack and face-climbing and a fantastic summit! The route has a "Fifty Classic Climbs" feel to it, as far as quality of climbing, position, and history. This ridge route follows the silhouette up the right shoulder as seen from camp.

Pitches

• P1: Start at a broken out section to a crack before ending on a shoulder, belaying to avoid too much rope drag
• P2 [5.6?]: Easy alpine boulder picking to the base of "headwall"
• P3 [5 / 5.8]: Head up two offwidth sections, keeping right into the pretty wide section when the crack splits. This is where the #5 would be useful but optional. Lots of hollow sounding parts but nothihg moved. (pg 137 in book starts here)
• P4 [4 / 5.6]: Go up an excellent corner to a wide chimney / roof with an airy feel. (Pretty strenuous for 4 / 5.6)
• P5 [6a / 10a]: Face climb up bolts to an easy transition before the blank finish on the summit

Descent:

Move from the final anchor, down the summit block to the summit rappel station. Rappel down the route.

Standard rack to single #4. #5 Camalot could be useful in a couple of places, including the off-width crack on the third pitch and the chimney on the fourth pitch. Some fixed pitons on the route. Final pitch takes 13 draws off primarily bolts and some pitons.

Mostly belays on good ledges where often (but not always) large natural anchors can be used.