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Routes in Torre Principal

Chocolate Liquido (6a+) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Clemenzo T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
No TEOlvidaremos T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Ruta Normal T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sarandonga e Chicharones T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Sinestro Total T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 400 ft, 5 pitches, Grade III
FA: Pablo Fisher and Gustavo Kammerer, 1943
Page Views: 2,008 total, 28/month
Shared By: J Med on Dec 17, 2011
Admins: Tony Yeary, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra

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Description

The original summit route ascended, finally, in 1943 after Pablo Fisher and Gustavo Kammerer overcame the final 40-foot slab guarding the summit. They initially spent an hour-and-a-half trying to throw an iron hook over the top, but eventually resorted to drilling seven one-inch metal rods- the holes of which are still visible as you climb past and clip the modern bolts protecting the steep, thin face.

Beautiful, steep granite, with nice crack and face-climbing and a fantastic summit! The route has a "Fifty Classic Climbs" feel to it, as far as quality of climbing, position, and history.

Protection

Pretty light single rack should suffice; #5 Camalot useful in a couple of places, including the off-width crack on the third pitch and the chimney on the fourth pitch. Lots of fixed gear, particularly the final pitch to summit, which has around ten bolts and fixed pins.
Dan Petty
Wheat Ridge, CO
Dan Petty   Wheat Ridge, CO
We definitely did not feel the need for a #5... Feb 4, 2012