All Locations > International > South America > Argentina > Rio Negro > San Carlos de Bar… > Frey > Torre Principal
Avg: 4 from 1 vote
|Type:||Trad, 350 ft, 5 pitches, Grade II|
|FA:||Bunch of guachos in 2003|
|Page Views:||108 total, 12/month|
|Shared By:||kiff on Mar 8, 2017|
|Admins:||Tony Yeary, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra|
DescriptionThis impeccable route climbs to the summit of El Pilastro. Exquisite rock featuring corners, roofs, huecos, and aretes to an unforgettable summit. Though largely bolted, a single rack is needed for the corner on the crux pitch and to tame a few runouts higher on the route.
P1: Start in a low angle 5 inch crack just to the left of a large detached flake. There is a pin about 10 meters up the crack. From here, tackle a short and steep crack maneuver, leading left to a dirty slab which terminates at a ledge. 5.9 2 bolt belay
P2: Begin moving up towards the bolts (painted red). Some lose blocks in the corner offer good holds and stances for scoping out the face climbing crux. Clip a bolt and commit to mini footholds and gastons to gain a jug. What follows is 20 meters of oro puro, palming and smearing between fingerlocks and gear before reaching a hueco and hanging belay. 5.11+
P3: Continue off the belay into steep underclings and laybacks to gain the vertical face above. Belay at bolts. This pitch is easily combined with the previous. 5.11-
P4: A mostly bolted pitch with intricate face climbing up a honeycombed maze of holds. It looks like they should all be good, but alas. Bolted belay. 5.11
P5: Surmount the mini roof on jugs and continue linking unlikely huecos up the otherwise blank face. Work left to the arete and savor the oh so sweet exposure and requisite runout climbing. Belay at a stance just below the summit. This pitch is also linkable with the previous. 5.10
Rappel the route with at least a single 70m. Take care on the way down, it is steep!
It is my opinion that the grade greatly depends on how one pitches this route out.