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Routes in Torre Principal

Chocolate Liquido (6a+) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Clemenzo T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
No TEOlvidaremos T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Ruta Normal T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sarandonga e Chicharones T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Sinestro Total T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 350 ft, 5 pitches, Grade II
FA: Bunch of guachos in 2003
Page Views: 108 total, 12/month
Shared By: kiff on Mar 8, 2017
Admins: Tony Yeary, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra

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Description

This impeccable route climbs to the summit of El Pilastro. Exquisite rock featuring corners, roofs, huecos, and aretes to an unforgettable summit. Though largely bolted, a single rack is needed for the corner on the crux pitch and to tame a few runouts higher on the route.

P1: Start in a low angle 5 inch crack just to the left of a large detached flake. There is a pin about 10 meters up the crack. From here, tackle a short and steep crack maneuver, leading left to a dirty slab which terminates at a ledge. 5.9 2 bolt belay

P2: Begin moving up towards the bolts (painted red). Some lose blocks in the corner offer good holds and stances for scoping out the face climbing crux. Clip a bolt and commit to mini footholds and gastons to gain a jug. What follows is 20 meters of oro puro, palming and smearing between fingerlocks and gear before reaching a hueco and hanging belay. 5.11+

P3: Continue off the belay into steep underclings and laybacks to gain the vertical face above. Belay at bolts. This pitch is easily combined with the previous. 5.11-

P4: A mostly bolted pitch with intricate face climbing up a honeycombed maze of holds. It looks like they should all be good, but alas. Bolted belay. 5.11

P5: Surmount the mini roof on jugs and continue linking unlikely huecos up the otherwise blank face. Work left to the arete and savor the oh so sweet exposure and requisite runout climbing. Belay at a stance just below the summit. This pitch is also linkable with the previous. 5.10

Rappel the route with at least a single 70m. Take care on the way down, it is steep!

It is my opinion that the grade greatly depends on how one pitches this route out.

Location

South face of Torre Principal, accessed via the large ledge that can be gained from the east side by scrambling over easy 5th class terrain. There are anchors for rappeling on the return. The route begins ~100 meters west of the start of the ledge, where there is a large detached flake on the right and a steep gully descending further west leading to the west face of Torre Principal

Protection

Single rack to 2 or 3 camalot with some wires. 12 quickdraws, perhaps more if linking pitches.

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