Description

The Principal is the largest of the towers of Frey. Several routes of varying difficulty ascend every aspect.

Getting There

From the refugio ascend to the saddle to the west of the lake and approach past the Aguja M2 and Abuelo, ascend snow slopes and scree to the base of the Principal. Depending on your route choice you will need to modify your approach.

6 Total Climbs

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Location: Torre Principal Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Torre Principal

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 19
Clemenzo
Trad 6 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 20
Ruta Normal
Trad 5 pitches
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 7
Chocolate Liquido (6a+)
Trad 4 pitches
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
 10
Sinestro Total
Trad 8 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Clemenzo
 19
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad 6 pitches
Ruta Normal
 20
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 5 pitches
Chocolate Liquido (6a+)
 7
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 4 pitches
Sinestro Total
 10
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Trad 8 pitches
More Classic Climbs in Torre Principal »

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David Appelhans
Broomfield, CO
David Appelhans   Broomfield, CO
A better approach is found by following the lake shore to the end of the cirque then heading left up a gully with a stream. It took us 3 hours to navigate to the principal via the ridge line, but several days later we made it to the base in 1.5 hours following the lake and gully as suggested in the guidebook. Jan 10, 2009
David Trippett
Squamish, BC
David Trippett   Squamish, BC
Hey! Aren't you that same guy that tried to climb Sinestro Total and ended up on the East face? That was a crazy story!

It really depends on your familiarity with the area, Dave. Many locals and people who know their way around go from the saddle. If you're not sure where you're going, it maybe better to use the lake. Apr 12, 2009