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Routes in Alien Wall

Alien T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Aliens T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cowboys and Aliens T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Eagles and Aliens T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
No More Aliens T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Arjun Heimsath and David Sampson
Page Views: 226 total, 3/month
Shared By: arjunmh on Nov 25, 2011
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Must Register! Private Property-The Pond, Atlantis and Mine Area Details

Description

Far left buttress of Alien Wall. Begin in the large gully at the left side and traverse the poor quality rock to access the wide, off-width left-angling and overhanging crack about 25 ft up. Pull committing moves into the crack to easier ground, leaving the crack for a short stretch of bulging face to large horizontal crack above poor rock. Traverse right to access vertical hand crack leading to easier ground. Done ground up once and then repeated and cleaned further.

Needs still more cleaning, but the death blocks are gone -- go for it and clean, or wait until we clean this route up more! Note that the upper part to the anchors passes to the right of much loose rock on easy climbing.

Location

Far left of this upper wall, on the far left of the main gulley feature.

Protection

FA done ground up on trad gear, double rack of 0.3 to 3 inch cams, with single 4 inch for the lower off-width. If you place a lot of gear you'll want triples of 0.5, 0.75 and 1 inch cams.
arjunmh
Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
 
arjunmh   Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
 
Cleaned the "death blocks", cleared the cracks of detritus, got the top free of loose debris. Only thing left to fully clean is the somewhat loose footholds used to establish into the off-width. But, we've now climbed this several times and it's shaping up nicely. A very fun route that will be heady for a strong leader. Dec 23, 2011
roman d
Pasadena, CA
roman d   Pasadena, CA
Excellent and exciting route, but very rough around the edges still. Stout moves getting established into the OW. Dec 19, 2011