Family Jewels
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British
Early Access
| Type: | Trad, 2 pitches |
| GPS: | 40.43765, -105.31658 |
| FA: | Steve McCorkel, Kurt Strobel |
| Page Views: | 2,020 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | Stroblinski on Nov 6, 2011 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Per JF M: as of May 2022, there is no signage on-site, nor information on the USFS webpage for the Cameron Peak Fire (nor on their published map of closures) that indicates the area is closed.
Per Bruce Hildenbrand: it appears that the Forest Service has closed access to all the climbing areas accessed via Storm Mountain Road (Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc.) until they can clear all the dangerous dead trees from the Cameron Peak fire.
I worked this issue with Eric Murdock at the AF, and it looks like the Forest Service picked Devil's Gulch Road as the southern boundary even though all the climbing areas on MP.com were not burned.
Description
The second pitch of this climb is the obvious, left-facing dihedral on the right side of the formation.
First pitch (5.7): the first pitch follows the left-facing dihedral system that is broken by a few ledges. It begins in a wide crack and trends up and right. It ends on the grassy, sloping ledge below the roof at the bottom of the clean, golden dihedral of the second pitch.
Second pitch (5.9): continue up and right to the roof, then back left toward the dihedral. Make an exciting move to establish your feet on the face beside the dihedral, then enjoy some enjoyable crack climbing to the top of the dihedral.
Descent: walk right along ledges to the lower of two trees and rappel.



2 Comments