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Routes in Burma Road Bouldering

Type: Boulder, 15 ft
FA: EZ or Paul Jones
Page Views: 957 total, 13/month
Shared By: Paul Campbell on Oct 17, 2011
Admins: Burt Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

You & This Route


6 Opinions

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Description

Use underclings to move into better holds at the top.

Location

Located in a separate pit next to "Like Shaking Hands with God"

Protection

1 pad or more, topout should be over the nice flat area.

Photos

Ian CB
  V8 PG13
Ian CB  
  V8 PG13
I don't care either way, though I do think it's a different line.. Sort of. Waffle House is substantially worse, probably as hard or harder, and definitely more dangerous. I talked to old schoolers and I heard something may have been done here, from a strong guy Mike Gasch from Milwaukee. Though I couldn't get anyone definitively comfirm that, maybe Terry can? Zschiesche and Paul both said they didn't climb anything on this face though. Oct 23, 2015
madisonchoss  
 
A little background on these problems -

I was climbing at Burma with Blake, Sam, etc and thought this face looked amazing, despite being rather mossy. I cleaned up what seemed to me to be the easiest way up, which would be climbed later that day by Ian as "Waffle House."

Later, he climbed "Purple Gold," which not only is a better line but also no harder (possibly even easier) than "Waffle House" - turns out I was wrong about the easiest way up!

I don't think anyone knows what line was originally climbed on this boulder; the unnamed entry just got converted to "Waffle House" when that was climbed and then "Purple Gold" got added later. In my opinion, since we don't know what was originally climbed and "Purple Gold" is fairly obviously "the line" on this face / rightfully gets a ton of traffic, I think it's safe to delete "Waffle House." Oct 23, 2015
Paul Campbell
Waukesha, WI
 
Paul Campbell   Waukesha, WI
 
Whats even the difference between the two problems? It seems like Purple Gold is the more logical line. Maybe delete this one and change the FA on purple gold?

But really I don't know the true history of the problem, I believe I asked Paul Jones shortly after I took the picture and he wasn't positive who did it first, but was sure it had been done. I don't know what line they took either.

Also Terry comments on the photo that this problem was done around 2000 but doesn't specify any beta. Oct 22, 2015
Chris treggE
Madison, Beersconsin
Chris treggE   Madison, Beersconsin  
My opinion is if Eric or Paul climbed this line previously then it should stay. Oct 22, 2015
Paul Campbell
Waukesha, WI
 
Paul Campbell   Waukesha, WI
 
I'll delete it if not. Oct 21, 2015
Is this still a problem? Oct 21, 2015
Looks sick all cleaned up! Apr 21, 2012
Ian CB
  V8 PG13
Ian CB  
  V8 PG13
No pics. It does look cool cleaned up though thanks to Peter, Blake, and Sam. Apr 15, 2012
Paul Campbell
Waukesha, WI
 
Paul Campbell   Waukesha, WI
 
Nice work! I bet this thing looks really cool cleaned up. Any pics? Apr 15, 2012
Ian CB
  V8 PG13
Ian CB  
  V8 PG13
Well met a good crew out here today and climbed this thing. I think about V8 and a good one at that. Also very committing. I started standing right hand in an undercling and left hand on the arete. Hard big first move to sustained, awesome and kinda dabby climbing on cool holds above the slab on the left. Recommend lots of pads and good spotters. This thing needs a name for sure, I say Waffle House unless it already has one. Apr 14, 2012
the inderclings are good, but the lower face looks super thin. needs a mega scrub Apr 8, 2012