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Routes in Lower Slabs

Adrenaline T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
And God Created All Men Equal T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Angry Angles T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Autumn Fire T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Captain Hook T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Dark Star T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Death by Abunga T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Dirty Rat T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Discrepancy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Finger Lichen Good T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
For Slab Rats Only T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Good Morning T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Grass Route T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Guillotine T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
It ain't the meat, its the motion T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Know Fair T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
ME T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Peatoidal Membranes T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Praying Mantle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
R2D2 T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Scuttle T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Seldom Seen T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Seneca Samurai T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Snakebite T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Some People T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Summer Breeze T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sunny Down Bulow T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
TIPS T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Unspecified hand crack (?) T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
WAPSUCK 4 T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Wapsuck Direct T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Warlock, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Witchy Way T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 75 ft
FA: Mark Thesing, Paul Anikis
Page Views: 1,070 total · 14/month
Shared By: Seth Murphy on Oct 13, 2011
Admins: Ladd, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones, Shawn Heath

You & This Route


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Description

Crux is the first 20 feet, marginal gear on 5.6/5.7 climbing, don't fall through this section.

Location

Begin 20 ft right of Scuttle. Climb the face to a small/thin right facing corner. Climb to an obvious ledge, traverse right to left facing corner and flakes.

Protection

Standard Seneca rack.

Photos

Andy Weinmann
Silver Spring, MD
  5.7 PG13
Andy Weinmann   Silver Spring, MD
  5.7 PG13
The pro in the lower section (the crux really) is a little thin but it's there. I recommend some brass/small stoppers. Small cams would take up space where you want your fingers. You shouldn't need anything larger than a #2 BD C4. There's also a bit of suspect rock after that initial crux corner. Altogether a very nice climb in the Slabs. Jun 12, 2017
We did some variations on top rope that made for interesting harder ascents. At the bottom, climb the thin face just to the right of the crack, group consensus 5.11a. Near the top, climb the face to the left of the route, group consensus 5.10a. YMMV. Aug 4, 2015
Seth Murphy  
 
Fully agreed Mark. I just think that this climb might be more eye-opening for the new 5.7 climber then say, Green Wall, SJM, or West Pole, which readily accept fantastic protection when ever you feel the need to place it.

But again, I agree, probably not R, and probably not 5.7. Aug 21, 2014
Mark Thesing
Central Indiana
  5.7
Mark Thesing   Central Indiana
  5.7
I don't understand the R rating unless it has something to do with it not taking cams easily. I can’t say if that is the case or not since I put the route up in 1984 (I think) and at the time I had very few cams and only used them when really needed. My memory of the climb is it protected very well with small to medium size stoppers and hexes. When I established the route I didn’t fell protection was lacking at any point. Aug 17, 2014
climbamt
  5.7
climbamt  
  5.7
There is an easy walk off to the climbers left- Rappelling from the big pine at the top of Scuttle is damaging the tree. When the tree goes, the ground above this climb is going to erode quickly. May 7, 2012

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