Type: Trad, 75 ft
FA: Mark Thesing, Paul Anikis
Page Views: 1,205 total · 14/month
Shared By: Seth Murphy on Oct 13, 2011
Admins: Ladd, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

You & This Route


14 Opinions

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Description

Crux is the first 20 feet, marginal gear on 5.6/5.7 climbing, don't fall through this section.

Location

Begin 20 ft right of Scuttle. Climb the face to a small/thin right facing corner. Climb to an obvious ledge, traverse right to left facing corner and flakes.

Protection

Standard Seneca rack.

Photos

Gary Dunn
Baltimore
  5.7
Gary Dunn   Baltimore
  5.7
There is an easy walk off to the climbers left- Rappelling from the big pine at the top of Scuttle is damaging the tree. When the tree goes, the ground above this climb is going to erode quickly. May 7, 2012
Mark Thesing
Central Indiana
  5.7
Mark Thesing   Central Indiana
  5.7
I don't understand the R rating unless it has something to do with it not taking cams easily. I can’t say if that is the case or not since I put the route up in 1984 (I think) and at the time I had very few cams and only used them when really needed. My memory of the climb is it protected very well with small to medium size stoppers and hexes. When I established the route I didn’t fell protection was lacking at any point. Aug 17, 2014
Seth Murphy
  5.7
Seth Murphy  
  5.7
Fully agreed Mark. I just think that this climb might be more eye-opening for the new 5.7 climber then say, Green Wall, SJM, or West Pole, which readily accept fantastic protection when ever you feel the need to place it.

But again, I agree, probably not R, and probably not 5.7. Aug 21, 2014
We did some variations on top rope that made for interesting harder ascents. At the bottom, climb the thin face just to the right of the crack, group consensus 5.11a. Near the top, climb the face to the left of the route, group consensus 5.10a. YMMV. Aug 4, 2015
Andy Weinmann
Silver Spring, MD
  5.7 PG13
Andy Weinmann   Silver Spring, MD
  5.7 PG13
The pro in the lower section (the crux really) is a little thin but it's there. I recommend some brass/small stoppers. Small cams would take up space where you want your fingers. You shouldn't need anything larger than a #2 BD C4. There's also a bit of suspect rock after that initial crux corner. Altogether a very nice climb in the Slabs. Jun 12, 2017