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Routes in South Faces

Awsome Arete S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Choss to Treasure S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dihedral Dance T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mark it Zero! T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rainday S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Type: Trad, TR, 100 ft
FA: Unknown . I climbed it first in 2009 - Please let me know!
Page Views: 480 total, 6/month
Shared By: Nick Janssen on Oct 10, 2011
Admins: Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

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Description

Begin at flaring crack (usually filled with beetles) and climb up and left, 30 feet, to crack system just below the first overhang. Pull the overhang and advance to second overhang (crux). Continue up face using bomber holds to a jam crack. This crack leads you to a point where the angle eases and eventually tops out on a nice, roomy belay ledge. Finish climb or continue to scramble up to Castle Rock summit. A fun and varied climb!

Location

Right around the corner from "Best Jams" (climber's right)

Protection

Top-rope. Not sure if the sandstone would hold trad gear...don't want to find out!

Photos

pdk
Janesville, WI
pdk   Janesville, WI
5.9 is solid. The hornets and asian beetles can really intimidate a climber in the fall season. Wish the midsection was more concrete. Can't believe we did australian rappelling off this in the dark!

Lots of climbing pressure now with sport routes established and Gibralter closed in Lodi. Feb 28, 2015
Nick Janssen  
 
That is quite a story! Thank you so much for sharing.

I have seen some sizable chunks come off this climb. Setting a rope up was always very interesting.

Would you agree with the 5.9 rating? That second roof is pretty delicate...maybe 10a.

I do miss Castle Rock. Gorgeous views of the land and never any climbing pressure! Feb 26, 2015
pdk
Janesville, WI
pdk   Janesville, WI
I climbed this on toprope in 1986. My partner David Abrahamson was attending college with me at UW Platteville and had a great idea to do this with a 50 meter rope. I was pumped because I had new Fire rock shoes and wanted to get 'em smeared up. I met Dave on a gorgeous fall day and he had the toprope set............only one problem: Rope was too short. We tied my rope to his and away I went. Right at the crux pull, Dave informs me he has to undo his belay to bypass the rope connection in the belay device....I was scared sh..less. Refastened, I kicked my right leg up above 2nd roof and amazed myself that I tried that move. Mounting the roof I prayed it would not peal from the main face and I completed the easy scramble to the top. To this day it looks like some large rocks could peel from this face....Be cautious. Keep belayer well to the side. Feb 26, 2015