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Routes in South Faces

Awsome Arete S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Choss to Treasure S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dihedral Dance T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mark it Zero! T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rainday S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,003 total, 8/month
Shared By: TravisMelin on May 2, 2007
Admins: Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

You & This Route


10 Opinions

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Description

Nice face route, fairly sustained. The crux is right at the top. You can clip the anchors of the crux holds if your tall, or its a couple more tough moves to gain the ledge.

Location

To find this you have to do a short scramble up and left from the base of the mixed route to just beneath a pine tree.

Protection

6 bolts, webbing and rap ring anchor.
ChrisFrayer
Platteville, Wi
5.12a/b
ChrisFrayer   Platteville, Wi
5.12a/b
No worries, thanks again for replacing with chains. The old anchor setup looked rough!

It is worth bringing a trash bag when you climb at castle rock. Lots of beer cans and trash. May 18, 2012
Tradiban
  5.12b
Tradiban  
  5.12b
Thanks Chris, not sure why I left that there, I must have forgotten. Usually I pack out a bag of trash everytime I go.

This is a great climb, but I can't say I enjoy getting smacked in the face with the hardest moves right at the top, hence 3 out of 4 stars. May 18, 2012
ChrisFrayer
Platteville, Wi
5.12a/b
ChrisFrayer   Platteville, Wi
5.12a/b
Maybe the best 12 at castle rock - fun technical boulder problem at the top. Thanks for replacing the manky anchor setup! Your welcome for packing out the old anchor setup left at the base of the climb :) May 17, 2012
Tradiban
  5.12b
Tradiban  
  5.12b
I trimmed the tree today, much cleaner falls. Nov 24, 2011
Andy Hansen
Longmont, Colorado
  5.12b
Andy Hansen   Longmont, Colorado
  5.12b
Quality route. I definitely think this is harder than Kingdom Come... or that route is soft but that's not true so this is definitely 12b. Great crux moves! Sep 1, 2011
Tradiban
  5.12b
Tradiban  
  5.12b
Fun, easy 5.11 balance climbing until the last moves, a powerful layback with an interesting sequence.

Can we rename this "Rainday"? In honor of today and to make it easier to refer to ;)

I also put new chains on the anchor. Aug 8, 2011
Remo
Madison, WI
  5.12a/b
Remo   Madison, WI
  5.12a/b
This climb is a little gem. The rock quality and the movement are really good. Aug 8, 2011
Tradiban
  5.12b
Tradiban  
  5.12b
The anchor for this is a mess of old rope and a wire secured with clamps. I have a chain to put on and I will do so next time I'm here. Aug 4, 2011
ChrisFrayer
Platteville, Wi
5.12a/b
ChrisFrayer   Platteville, Wi
5.12a/b
11- to a nice technical crux. Would be nice to bring a saw to do a little tree trimming. Not sure my partner enjoyed the elevator ride through the pine tree as I fell :) Oct 16, 2010
Tradiban
  5.12b
Tradiban  
  5.12b
I think this is the face route just left of Awesome Arete (which is not mixed). Mixed route is the 5.10 in the dihedral. Jun 24, 2010