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Routes in South Faces

Awsome Arete S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Choss to Treasure S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dihedral Dance T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mark it Zero! T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rainday S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,564 total, 12/month
Shared By: TravisMelin on May 2, 2007
Admins: Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

You & This Route


12 Opinions

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Description

Head up the slab through some loose rock, some neat moves lead you into the small overhang on positive holds. After pulling over the small roof head out and left though the crux to gain a rest ledge...After clipping the next couple bolts you can either move out to the exposed arete (5.10/11), or head up direct(desperate feeling 5.12ish).

Protection

12 bolts to chain anchors.

Photos

Remo
Madison, WI
  5.12a
Remo   Madison, WI
  5.12a
Awesome endurance route! Get it all back at the rest and fire the top crux to the chains. Jul 8, 2012
Tradiban
  5.12a
Tradiban  
  5.12a
Tough finish on this one, most will find themselves on small crimps staring at the chains and unable to clip, do a few more moves for that clipping jug and enjoy the view! Remedy and Kingdom Come are better climbs however. Nov 8, 2011
Chris treggE
Madison, WI
Chris treggE   Madison, WI  
Keep 'em coming. Aug 9, 2011
Mr. Mix
Sauk City, WI
  5.12b
Mr. Mix   Sauk City, WI
  5.12b
I think this route, and the many other unknown routes as CR, deserve to be named. How about "Choss to Treasure" for this one? Aug 9, 2011
Tradiban
  5.12a
Tradiban  
  5.12a
I used the flake in question but I didn't feel like breakage was imminent. Let nature take its course, if it breaks, it breaks. Great sequence through there.

Up and right of the chains is a nice clipping jug. Aug 4, 2011
Mr. Mix
Sauk City, WI
  5.12b
Mr. Mix   Sauk City, WI
  5.12b
I agree with John, please don't pry off the most memorable feature on this route. Dec 25, 2010
Lets keep the flake. Maybe some epoxy behind it would help... Nov 13, 2010
ChrisFrayer
Platteville, Wi
5.12a
ChrisFrayer   Platteville, Wi
5.12a
The huge sidepull flake system at the fifth bolt is probably going to brake off. As you move past you can feel it flex. Might be a good idea to pry it off so that there is not the potential for the belayer to get hit with a 50 plus pound rock. Any thoughts on this? Oct 17, 2010
ChrisFrayer
Platteville, Wi
5.12a
ChrisFrayer   Platteville, Wi
5.12a
Nice route with two cruxes separated by a sit down rest. A large right hand side pull under cling broke off as my partner was climbing the lower crux (helmet not a bad idea for the belayer.) He thought it might be a touch harder with the broken hold. Going to the anchors looks somewhat unfathomable without chalk. But a long reach brings you to some good crimps. A long enjoyable route! Oct 17, 2010
Watch for loose rock on the first half of this climb!
I dislodged the brick sized pinch/foothold at the lip of the first roof which subsequently collided with my belayer's hip 25 feet below. No injuries miraculously, but if this had been a head shot many stitches would have been involved.
  • **Wearing a helmet while belaying may actually be cool if it helps to avoid skull fractures/scalp lacerations!
Oct 1, 2010
waxisgood
Milwaukee, WI
waxisgood   Milwaukee, WI
what a beautiful line. can't ask for too much more. it really doesn't feel like moves i've felt in WI. super fun and relaxing moves with two cruxes. wonderful exposure at the top. Jul 31, 2010
Tradiban
  5.12a
Tradiban  
  5.12a
FYI, this is the first route you come to after passing "Best Jams" and the Amphitheater Wall. Jun 24, 2010
Dobbe
 
Dobbe  
 
This is thing is long and has some good moves and two crux's. The top is a hard sequince that ends in a nonrewarding long reach for the chains on small feet. If your over 6 foot Maybe the reach will not be so bad. Still one great route!! May 11, 2009