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Routes in East of CCC trail

CCC Trail Project V6+ 7A
Easy Crimps V1- 5-
Farmer's Crack V0 4
Farmer's Daughter V1 5
Farmers wife V3 6A
Fat Pants V7 7A+
Headbanger V4+ 6B+
Ivory Face , The V11 8A
ObZen V2-3 5+
Rail Gun V6 7A
Rail Gun Left V8 7B
Room to Grow V1 5
mosstop cocktail V1+ 5
on your knees V4+ 6B+
Type: Boulder
FA: Ian CB or Old School
Page Views: 2,349 total, 31/month
Shared By: Ian CB on Oct 1, 2011
Admins: Burt Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

You & This Route


26 Opinions

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Description

Start matched on the low jug on the left side and compress up the arete. Fun climbing

Location

From Captains Traverse go right up the gully next to the cliff band go through a notch and head left through the corridors and it will be on the left. Can also be reached from the top, veer right at the top of the ccc after the routes and you can drop into it.

Protection

a few pads, landings a little weird. A spotter would be good too.
Chris treggE
Madison, Beersconsin
  V7
Chris treggE   Madison, Beersconsin  
  V7
Steve Schultz found this little history lesson on climbingdevilslake.com and thought "The Breadslicer project" was almost certainly what became Fat Pants when it was projected previously.

By: Tom Petaitis Report to Moderator (What's this?)
On: 3.15.2004
Comments: 'Breadslicer' (V8-9?) I found and attempted to establish this boulder problem in August 2003 and then broke my arm and was unable to complete it--nevertheless gave it the tentative name 'Breadslicer'. Something of potencial interest that seemed untouched by human hands and seems completely unknown by the locals I've spoken to. It's a sick overhanging 13' problem: a razor-sharp starting hold that looks and feels like a serrated blade (hence the name 'Breadslicer') and two hard variations (the left solution or the right solution) with a tumultuous three-tiered fall-zone requiring about four trustworthy spotters, the whole thing being well-protected by nesting yellow-jackets!! You'll need about at least three bouldering pads if you plan to go for it.

Hidden well-behind the Guillotine Area (about as far north as you can venture before you are in the woods) it's still worth checking out. The holds are few and far-between, just barely good enough, tricky, and there is no room for error. An early fall lands you on the sharp bridge of a rock; a mid-point fall will send you into the second tier--a precarious position for the spotters (the spotters will need spotters); and a higher fall will send you out into a third lower tier--which adds another 6-10 feet to the fall! And if that isn't enough, the problem is well protected by nesting yellow-jackets!!

If you decide to pass it up there are a number of easier problems between the Guillotine and 'Breadslicer', about 100 feet east of 'The Flatiron'. I've seen no-one outside of myself climb these either.
Dec 8, 2013
John W. Knoernschild
Wisconsin
  V7
John W. Knoernschild   Wisconsin
  V7
Thx guys! Apr 30, 2012
Chris treggE
Madison, Beersconsin
  V7
Chris treggE   Madison, Beersconsin  
  V7
Seriously dude! Nice job John. Apr 29, 2012
sweatpants
Broomfield, CO
  V7
sweatpants   Broomfield, CO
  V7
wow John, you're on a tear Apr 28, 2012
John W. Knoernschild
Wisconsin
  V7
John W. Knoernschild   Wisconsin
  V7
Sent this today! First day on it. Amazing climb! On to sex and chocolate. Oh and we built up the landing, making it a bit safer. Pads sit flat now. Apr 27, 2012
Chris treggE
Madison, Beersconsin
  V7
Chris treggE   Madison, Beersconsin  
  V7
Absolutely and shamelessly true. Mar 16, 2012
LOL! "Beta Poacher" LOVE IT! Mar 15, 2012
sweatpants
Broomfield, CO
  V7
sweatpants   Broomfield, CO
  V7
video from the gnar forthcoming I think. For beta poachers like Eggy. Mar 15, 2012
Chris treggE
Madison, Beersconsin
  V7
Chris treggE   Madison, Beersconsin  
  V7
I heard that an aging, balding, fat "climber" broke the right arete crimp off late last November. He wholeheartedly apologizes to the climbing community for this grievous error, but would like to point out that since it's already broken off now, nobody else will get injured as a result. Mar 15, 2012
sweatpants
Broomfield, CO
  V7
sweatpants   Broomfield, CO
  V7
Just so good! We ran a train on it today with Eggnuts, Keith and I all sending. Mar 15, 2012
Skyler F.
La Crosse, WI
  V7
Skyler F.   La Crosse, WI
  V7
I chickened out on this today with only 2 pads and 1 spotter, but definitely want to get back on it. Was there any thought toward excavating the landing area or is it going to remain as is for a little extra spice factor? Nov 25, 2011
Remo
Madison, WI
  V7
Remo   Madison, WI
  V7
Awesome problem! This is a new classic and should be on everyone's to-do list. Nov 1, 2011
Ian CB
 
Ian CB  
 
Katie sent this thing last week for a possible second ascent. Oct 11, 2011
John W. Knoernschild
Wisconsin
  V7
John W. Knoernschild   Wisconsin
  V7
Sweet vid Ian! Now that's how every climb in your vids should be. No speed up or slow down. Just climbing at it's best! Great music, great angles, great climb. Nice work. Oct 7, 2011
sweatpants
Broomfield, CO
  V7
sweatpants   Broomfield, CO
  V7
I care! It should be pointed out that he does about 13 more foot moves than me. Waste of energy sir. waste of energy. And steve is correct, detached blocks are almost never on homie. Oct 6, 2011
SteveSchultz  
 
I think a safe assumption would be that detached blocks are generally off because.....well.......they're detached. There are obviously times when they're appropriate like on Sea Of Purple. This is not one of those cases and this problem is in no way contrived. Oct 6, 2011
vimeo.com/30151128

VIDEO for all who care

havent checked it out but seems that bottom block is off from the video...if things are contrived and are off they should be listed as so on mountain project? Oct 6, 2011
sweatpants
Broomfield, CO
  V7
sweatpants   Broomfield, CO
  V7
this thing was awesome! wish I got on it before I was tired. fell on the last couple of moves several times due to pumpedness. lame. Oct 6, 2011
Ian CB
 
Ian CB  
 
Sweaty got very close today. He also fell at some of the spots we were worried about and with a spot along with 3-4 pads it was totally fine. Oct 5, 2011
Remo
Madison, WI
  V7
Remo   Madison, WI
  V7
Nice send Ian! This is a really unique boulder and I'm psyched on it. Bring the spotters, the landing drops away. Oct 3, 2011
looks sexy!!! nice find! props on the fa! Oct 3, 2011
SteveSchultz  
 
Nice find Ian. Looks good. Oct 2, 2011