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Routes in 31 - The Jungle Gym

Alamo T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Breast Fest T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Bud Pilot T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Concrete Jungle (aka Poodle Bites) T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Flight Attendant T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Jungle Arms S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Jungle Book T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Loyd's Lolly Pop T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Minor Kinda Unit T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Viper T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Trad, 180 ft, 2 pitches
FA: W Brawn
Page Views: 990 total, 13/month
Shared By: Alexey on Sep 26, 2011
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

P1. Approach mossy junk 5.7. Climbing via the jungles of Bay tree bushes. 80 feet.
P2. Clean , very overhanging, leaning tight hands and than good hands crack. It looks from below easier than in fact it is. 100 feet 11c

Location

Right from Flight Attendant. The route is clearly seen from the approach trail, but it difficult to see it from the bottom of the crag.
The toe of the Buttress is to the right of Flight Attendant and just LEFT of the approach pitch for the Viper (this is different than shown in Reid's book).

Protection

3x #0.5 Cam ; 3x #0.75 cam; 3x #1 cam; 3x #2 Cam
and small/medium gear for top of P1

Photos

Vlad S
 
Vlad S  
 
You won't believe how filthy the approach pitch is. Such garbage. The main reason, why the route doesn't get more stars.

In addition to the recommended rack, bring some finger size pieces for the anchor (I used green+yellow aliens) and for the upper 10a part. The upper part takes #3 and #4 camalots, but you can also protect it with more aliens or the cams you don't use in the beginning of the pitch from the triple set. It basically looks like wide hands, but has a thinner crack deeper in. Cleaning this thing is a nightmare, so it's better if the second follows. With a single 60 you can rap straight down to the anchor of "Flight 800", and then again to the ground.

Final piece of beta regarding tape: If you have medium or large size hands and tape any more than minimally, you'll hose yourself for the ultra-tight hands at the start. If you don't tape at all, then get your neosporin ready. The upper section especially is sharp, grainy and full of lichen. I personally didn't tape, but put on handjammies on ledge before the 10a wide hands (it's a no hands stance). Currently licking my wounds.

With all that said, the money pitch is really good! If it only got more traffic and stayed clean - it would be stellar.

Here's a video:

vimeo.com/2323323 Oct 14, 2015