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East Face
5.11 YDS 6c+ French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E4 5c British C0 PG13
Avg: 3 from 3
votes
Early Access
Routes in Mikey's Island
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Annie's Knotty Fingers T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Care Giver, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Distriminator, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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East Face T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c C0 PG13 |
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Southeast Arete (unknown) S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Unknow Left-facing Corner to Top T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Unknown Tips Crack to Face T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
| Type: | Trad, Aid, 90 ft (27 m) |
| GPS: | 40.43625, -105.31664 |
| FA: | Jason Seaver, Matt Cohen, 5/22/10; FFA: Gillett or Arganbright, 2010s |
| Page Views: | 1,357 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | jason seaver on Sep 18, 2011 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: Access issue - Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc. - open since 2023
Details
Per JF M: as of May 2022, there is no signage on-site, nor information on the USFS webpage for the Cameron Peak Fire (nor on their published map of closures) that indicates the area is closed.
Per Bruce Hildenbrand: it appears that the Forest Service has closed access to all the climbing areas accessed via Storm Mountain Road (Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc.) until they can clear all the dangerous dead trees from the Cameron Peak fire.
I worked this issue with Eric Murdock at the AF, and it looks like the Forest Service picked Devil's Gulch Road as the southern boundary even though all the climbing areas on MP.com were not burned.
Description
Start in the chubby flared crack at the wall's base and climb it to a ledge. This ledge gives the pitch its PG-13 rating, as the dual flares above it have devious climbing and protection. I had to hang here on my onsight effort in order to suss it out. Hence the current C0 rating. Conquer the flares, and the jam/layback crack above, and then jog left under an overlap. Climb the burly splitter out the overlap and up the short headwall above to arrive at a slab in an alcove. There's a crack in a corner, shooting out the roof above, which is the obvious finish to this pitch. BUT, in my cowardice, and doubt about anchors above, I built an anchor in the roof crack and traversed way off right to belay. I believe a bolt anchor just above the roof crack (and a no-hang free ascent) would make this pitch complete. As is, scramble off right and back down to the base.
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