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Krack-a-Toe-ah (submitted as Safecracker)
5.12a YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British
Avg: 3.7 from 3
votes
Early Access
Routes in Ridge 2
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Arete Funicello S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Bladerunner S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Dixie Rising T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Dry Heave T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R |
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Haul Off and Heave T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Heave Ho T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Krack-a-Toe-ah (submitted as Safecracker) T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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LIPSTICK S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Mouth of the South T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Move Like a Stud T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Slab Left S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Slab Right S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Sleeping Digit T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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South of the Mouth T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Sportin' a Woodie S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
| Type: | Trad, 25 ft (8 m) |
| GPS: | 39.90833, -105.28729 |
| FA: | Alan Nelson |
| Page Views: | 1,387 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | slim on Sep 12, 2011 · Updates |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: Private Property issues
Details
Exact demarcation of property boundaries are not always clear. When in doubt, be discrete or polite.
Do not park your vehicle near the railroad tracks near Plainview. It is a well-known irritant to Plainview residents.
Safecracker
This little route offers a lot of great climbing in 25 feet. The route is bolted but is a perfect roof crack and can be done on gear also. My 3 star rating is probably pretty generous, given the length, but it is definitely one of the better routes up there.
Start up with some mildly chossy stemming to reach the start of the roof crack. Place protection (black, blue Aliens), or lean out and clip a bolt. Get ready to start cranking and launch immediately into cruxy climbing. For me, clipping the next protection (bolt or 000 BD C3) was the crux as it was fairly strenuous for my meager guns. Stick with it though as the climbing gets easier as it transitions into a better-sized crack. For the grand finale, thrust yourself up into the steep OW/chimney which is sharp as hell but user friendly.
2 Comments