Avg: 3.5 from 22 votes
|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 1600 ft (485 m), 9 pitches, Grade IV|
|Page Views:||6,862 total · 51/month|
|Shared By:||Dustysdawg on Sep 6, 2011 · Updates|
|Admins:||Chris Owen, Lurker -, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Salamanizer Ski|
This route is a great adventure in the Sierra. Based on the very limited information available on the web, it does not get climbed very often. The fact that this limited info has it rated Grade III or IV and 5.9 is a complete sandbag. Regardless of ratings, I can give a couple of comparisons to help estimate difficulty. It felt harder than NB of Merriam. Expect to expend the same amount of calories as you would/did on Western Front. I would say that this climb is more like Higher Cathedral with a bunch of 5.10 thrown in.
Pitch 1 - Start in the right facing corner with a hand crack that is just left of a large chimney. The chimney is an alternate start, but why? Belay under a roof. 5.9 200 feet
Pitch 2 - Go right and up over a bulge. Start aiming for the giant hanging flakes about that are about 800 feet off the ground. Follow the gully for most of this pitch. 5.8 - 200 feet
Pitch 3 - Scramble and simul-climb for about 250 more feet, still aiming for the hanging flakes. Belay on a ledge. 5.7 250 feet
Pitch 4 - Follow a thin crack to a ledge. It looks improbable, but it goes. It protects pretty well. 10a 190 feet
Pitch 5 - Climb up into the giant roof chimney. Looks intimidating, but it is really fun. 5.9 150 feet
Alternate Pitch 5 - Undercling left instead of going out the chimney and tackle the slightly run out amazing features in the face above. 5.10+ Pg13
Pitch 6 - Directly above the chimney is a single crack system that angles slightly right. It starts with a difficult thin crack and ends on a small stance. 10b 200 feet
Pitch 7 - Continue up the crack system, which widens to some great off width climbing. Finish on the ledge above the OW. 5.9+ 150 feet
Pitch 8 - From the top of the OW go up a jam/layback crack to a ledge. Then head left up another big crack to some more broken up terrain. 5.9+ 150 feet
Pitch 9 - Now you are close to the summit, but there is only really one way to go. Continue up through another OW and scramble around to ridge line.
From here you can decide if you want to keep going up he ridge line to the summit.
Descent: Southwest Slope Class 3. First Chute off the summit. Continue down 3/4 down chute, move descent left over slope to another chute. Loose rock at bottom increases excitement factor. Continue down to small alpine lake.