Type: Trad, 20 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 442 total · 5/month
Shared By: Matt Thomas on Aug 18, 2011
Admins: Courtney Curtner

You & This Route


10 Opinions

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Description

Climb the crack system, move right and climb the roof-crack in the overhang to finish up on the ledge above the overhang. Continue to anchors near top.

Location

Start on the Northeast wall of The Pit on the ledge 15 feet off the ground. This is the same side of the Pit as The Front Wall.

Protection

Gear and anchors. 
Caution: If Top Roping from the anchors, beware of the swing involved since the climb wanders across the wall: directional gear is recommended, or don’t fall from the upper crack.

Photos

Boyce
Alliance, OH
 
Boyce   Alliance, OH
 
Gear: can be done with three pieces. 1- sling around the triangle where two cracks meet half way up main wall. 2- #3 camalot at horizontal crack just to the left of the roof crack. 3- #1 camalot in the crack just above the roof.

Variation: Bursitis Direct [5.8] climb directly under and then up and through the roof. Difficult to protect the bottom half from decking on the main ledge 10 feet off of the ground, but it can still be lead. Nov 14, 2007
jhump
  5.6 PG13
jhump  
  5.6 PG13
I cant count how many times I've done this route- leading, top roping, soloing, rope soling, aiding, etc. It is really a great little climb with fun moves. Some of my earliest climbing memories involve watching my Dad smear desparately over the lip to gain the ledge and a solid handshake to follow. Jun 21, 2009
The very top hold on the route broke off sometime around 1990 and now the new hold that was created makes the route somewhat easier. Nov 25, 2009