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Routes in Dos XX

Jay's Route T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Jim's Route T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Oxbow TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rumble on the Crumble T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 825 total, 11/month
Shared By: S.Mckinna on Aug 4, 2011
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This route can be top roped or can be an exciting lead! Start up a chossy crack that has less than optimal rock for gear. Climb the crack and fun huecos to a stemming crux then go over an obvious roof protected by some hand gear, over & up a horizontal crack to the top anchors. The roof may be the crux if you are shorter. For most though, the crux is 10-15 feet off the ground on softer rock. I used a badly placed green Alien for the crux moves, but a stopper would work better. The rock quality and gear gets better as you go higher.

Location

This is left of Jay's Route 40 feet. Many huecos and pockets cover this area that has three chossy looking cracks. Jim's Route ascends the middle crack located below a roof with a hand crack. It's huecos are chalked & smeared with rubber.

Protection

I used some smaller Aliens (red-blue), and some Camalots: 2 #1, 2 #2s, and 1 #3. Bring runners for most of the placements. There are two glue-in bolts at the top. A smaller stopper (#8) or an off-set cam will protect the crux best.

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