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Routes in Black Bluff - N. Face (Right Side)

After the Fire T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Arctic Circle Jerk T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Aurora Borealis T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Best of Both Worlds T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Black Bart T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Black Beard T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Control Tower S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lichen in the Eye V0 4
Powder Finger T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Scratch and Sniff T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Shooting Star T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Social D T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Pat Brennan, Brad Singer & John Cardmon, July 1999
Page Views: 1,845 total · 22/month
Shared By: Johnny K. on Jul 26, 2011
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

There are two hand cracks next to each other on the center-right side of black bluff north face.
Scratch and sniff is the right crack.
Amazing jams on clean quality rock.Both climbs are must do's!Great duo with Black bart.

Location

Located on the center-right side on the north face of black bluff.

Protection

standard rack to #3 blue camalot
bolted anchors atop

Photos

Jack C. Beckley
arcadia ca
 
Jack C. Beckley   arcadia ca
 
This is a great climb that is steep and has great jamming with a few face holds on either side of the crack!
There are brand new open shuts at the top making it easy to climb this and black bart in one go! May 22, 2017
S. M. Q.  
 
I loved the climb with one exception. There is a large, rectangular block (fridge size x 2), sitting on the major ledge about 2/3 of the way up. The cracks for Scratch and Sniff, and Black Bart go up either side of it. The block itself is not attached to anything and leans OUT from the wall - you can clearly see this as you mantle the final move on Scratch and Sniff and look down into the foreboding space between the block and the wall. When/if this thing decides to finally topple out, better hope there are no climbers around...

Maybe I'm being too cautious, but this really rattled me. Jun 1, 2018
Ooh yah, we're jammin'!
Set a rope on top and swam a few laps on this and Black Bart. Some of the best straight-forward hand jamming on nearly vertical rock you can find. Be prepared to build a long anchor (off the shuts) with a directional to keep your top rope running smooth. Jun 3, 2018

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