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Routes in Black Bluff - N. Face (Right Side)

After the Fire T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Arctic Circle Jerk T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Aurora Borealis T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Best of Both Worlds T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Black Bart T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Black Beard T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Control Tower S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lichen in the Eye V0 4
Powder Finger T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Scratch and Sniff T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Shooting Star T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Social D T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
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Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: John Cardmon (solo), 1999
Page Views: 1,188 total · 14/month
Shared By: Johnny K. on Jul 26, 2011
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Climb the crack (hidden in the photo) on the right side inside of the chimney, or climb the chimney strictly to gain access to the ledge. Make some moves onto the face, then up to some small ledges. Anchors on the big ledge to the left on the tower, or continue up to the top of black bluff.

Another variation is to climb the chimney or the crack, then traverse over to the thin small roof portion that finishes on "Control Tower" anchors or link up the rest of "Best of Both Worlds".


Located on the right side on the north face of Black Bluff.


Standard rack to #3 camalot
Couple runners for the ledges


Jeff Botimer
Jeff Botimer  
I am not sure if the anchors that the description is talking about are exclusive to this route or if this route shares anchors with aurora borealis, but if "Best of both worlds" had its own anchors at one time, they are no longer there. I climbed up to the aurora anchors and used a directional to anchor this route. Aug 20, 2012
Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
No anchors have been removed, but there are anchors on top of the detached tower making up one wall of the chimney (Control Tower anchors). Oct 10, 2012
Oak Park, CA
Sean   Oak Park, CA
gear anchor at the tree atop the last big ledge, then walk off to climber's left; or continue up and right to go over easy blocks to reach bolted rap rings atop Aurora Borealis Sep 8, 2014
Reno, NV
Ancent   Reno, NV
From the top of the block, keep climbing, following the cracks up and right. There are nice rap rings at the top and nothing goes at harder than 5.7. May 28, 2016
The only two anchors I found for this route are at the top of control tower or on top of Aurora Borealis. However, there are plenty of options to build an anchor at the top of the finger crack that goes up past the chimney portion of the climb. Jul 10, 2016
Jack C. Beckley
arcadia ca
Jack C. Beckley   arcadia ca
We built an anchor at the last big ledge and then walked off to the climbers left! Worked great and would recommend doing it this way because there are some great jams past the "control tower" anchors. May 22, 2017

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