Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Black Bluff - N. Face (Right Side)

After the Fire T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Arctic Circle Jerk T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Aurora Borealis T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Best of Both Worlds T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Black Bart T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Black Beard T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Control Tower S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lichen in the Eye V0 4
Powder Finger T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Scratch and Sniff T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Shooting Star T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Social D T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Eric Tipton, Pat Brennan 6-99
Page Views: 3,557 total, 46/month
Shared By: Chris Owen on Aug 14, 2011
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


54 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Singer is justified in calling this one of the best 5.9 crack climbs in the SBs. It is a wonderful climb in a wonderful setting - nice and athletic with great moves up fine grained granite.

Work your way up the off width inside the flake, flakes and holds on the right prove most useful. The crux comes next with a hand traverse onto to a ledge on the left (very nice). Now follow the crack up over a couple of overlaps to the business. A splitter crack snakes it way up the face, but features to the left and good rest spots make this section a blast.

Finish up to the ledge in a flaring pod, which can be negotiated using face holds on either side.

Sit and ponder the expansive view while bringing up your second.

Location

Right facing lieback flake on the right side of the north face.

Protection

Standard rack of Friends #1 to #4. With a #5 at the start. Two bolt anchor - rappel off, 60m rope sufficient.
.
Jack C. Beckley
arcadia ca
 
Jack C. Beckley   arcadia ca
 
This is a great route! I was able to find a #3 placement in the far back of the off width in the beginning which allowed me to save my #4 for the top flare!
Recommend this route for sure! Have fun! May 22, 2017
Camron
  5.9
Camron  
  5.9
Climbed this route on 7/9/16. The off width section was fairly easy. I used a #5 and a #4. If I was a little bolder I could of gotten away with just a #4. I thought the first couple moves in the the hand crack was the hardest part. Although I probably need more work on my jamming.

Overall the climb is really good and the view at the top is pretty awesome. Jul 10, 2016
Ancent
Reno, NV
  5.9
Ancent   Reno, NV
  5.9
Awesome awesome climb. It has a little bit of everything: wide bottom, tenuous traverse, and solid crack to the top. May 28, 2016
Jan Tarculas
Riverside, Ca
  5.9
Jan Tarculas   Riverside, Ca
  5.9
I used a #4 C4 down at the bottom and just kept bumping it up before the traverse left. No bigger piece needed at top. Can easily be done with a single rack .5-4 C4 with a set of nuts Sep 27, 2015
matt c.  
don't need a #5 goes fine with a #4 Aug 11, 2014
Jeff Botimer
  5.9
Jeff Botimer  
  5.9
Fantastic route. I found the #3 camalot to be a slightly better fit than the #4, but the #4 worked. Jun 25, 2013
Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
 
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
 
Good advice Chris - I used a #4 Friend in that flare. Oct 10, 2011
C Miller
CA
  5.9
C Miller   CA  
  5.9
This is a great route with lots of variety throughout it's length. You can get away without the #5 at the start by going a little higher and gettting a blue Alien (or equivalent) at the top of the initial wide crack. Save a #4 Friend (or equivalent) for the wide flare at the top. Sep 9, 2011