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Areas in Black Bluff - North Face

Black Bluff - N. Face (Left Side) 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Black Bluff - N. Face (Right Side) 10 / 1 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 12
Elevation: 7,200 ft
GPS: 34.22, -116.993 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 8,734 total, 111/month
Shared By: C Miller on Jun 27, 2011
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

Description

The often shady north face is home to a stellar collection of mostly crack routes from 5.7 to 5.11+ with most in the 5.10 and under range. Some of the better routes here include Aurora Borealis (5.9), After the Fire (5.9), Shooting Star (5.10b), Social D (5.10b), Powder Finger (5.11a), Exodus (5.11c) and Die Hard (5.11c).

The general lack of traffic here means the routes are still a little dirty and in the process of cleaning up. If planning on doing multiple routes here an extra rope to fix as a rap line saves time on repeated descents as well as erosion of the slope.

Getting There

Follow the trail downhill to the base of the wall.

16 Total Climbs

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Location: Black Bluff - North Face Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Black Bluff - North Face

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Best of Both Worlds
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Scratch and Sniff
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Black Bart
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Arctic Circle Jerk
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Aurora Borealis
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
After the Fire
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Social D
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Black Beard
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Shooting Star
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Powder Finger
Trad
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Exodus
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Best of Both Worlds Black Bluff - N. Face (Right Side) 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Scratch and Sniff Black Bluff - N. Face (Right Side) 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Black Bart Black Bluff - N. Face (Right Side) 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Arctic Circle Jerk Black Bluff - N. Face (Right Side) 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Aurora Borealis Black Bluff - N. Face (Right Side) 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
After the Fire Black Bluff - N. Face (Right Side) 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Social D Black Bluff - N. Face (Right Side) 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Black Beard Black Bluff - N. Face (Right Side) 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Shooting Star Black Bluff - N. Face (Right Side) 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Powder Finger Black Bluff - N. Face (Right Side) 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Exodus Black Bluff - N. Face (Left Side) 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad
More Classic Climbs in Black Bluff - North Face »

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Photos

Sean Milburn
Los Angeles, CA
Sean Milburn   Los Angeles, CA
You don't need two ropes. most of the climbs have anchors. Also you can easily walk up to the anchors and then rap down and save yourself hiking down the loose hill. Jun 17, 2017

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