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Routes in Lower (CLOSED)

Berrycup T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Caboose T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Clean Crack T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Crescent Crack T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Hand Jive T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Penguins in Bondage T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: T.Cousins,J.Sinclair
Page Views: 2,090 total, 27/month
Shared By: Peter Winter on Jul 25, 2011
Admins: Nate Ball, Kate Lynn

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Access issues at the Lower Malamute. Details

Description

Fantastic arching crack that gets steeper and steeper.

Location

Right end of the lower malemute. Note-it is in the CN Rail right of way but not as close to the tracks as Hand Jive, Clean Crack etc.

Protection

Gear to 2", chains at the top

Photos

Mark van Eijk
  5.10d
Mark van Eijk  
  5.10d
Long and beautiful. Generally stays at a poddy fingers to off-fingers size for most of its length, so load up on these pieces (#.4 and #.5 c4s protect 80% of the route, 3+ of each will make it feel a lot more comfortable). A #3 protects the final moves to the anchor.

The low-angle ramp for the first half is steeper and trickier than it looks from the ground, especially when you factor in the pain of repeatedly cranking your feet into sharp pods. There is little opportunity for rest before launching into the steep and strenuous upper section. If 10+ is near your limit bring your "A" game. Apr 7, 2015
geoff georges
Seattle, Wa.
  5.10d
geoff georges   Seattle, Wa.
  5.10d
FFA: Dave Nicol, Paul Piro, 1976
It is best to attempt this on a cool day, the face bakes in the sun and sweaty greasy conditions hinder ones progress. Feb 12, 2015