Type: Trad, 50 ft (15 m)
GPS: 39.11715, -106.68469
FA: T. Perkins
Page Views: 995 total · 5/month
Shared By: Alex Shainman on Jul 25, 2011
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC
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Description Suggest change

This is a short, power-packed, little corner route with some techno-stemming! I think this rig is one of the steller trad testpieces of the grade, on The Pass.

It has a well-protected (get that gear in just right!), hard start to short but sustained laybacking in the tight corner. I gave it an "R" rating, but that's dependent on what gear you've got - there's this one tricky spot where only just the right brand and size cam placed a certain way will work...okay. If that piece blows, you'd better have a great belayer!!!

Location Suggest change

This is the farthest left route on Sunset Cliff, the leftmost, clean dihedral without bolts.

Protection Suggest change

See the description...but for a recommendation/comparison purposes: blue Alien - #2 Friend, medium nuts, a medium (#7 or 8) Hex works. Double open shut anchor.

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