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Routes in Stewarts Ledge

Barking Spider T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Crackatoa T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Dog Pounder S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Entertainer, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Frankenpine T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Lithium S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Nevermore T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Revolver T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Valium S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Dave Aldous
Page Views: 402 total, 5/month
Shared By: Jaysen Henderson on Jul 21, 2011
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


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Description

The opening move makes this route worth doing, pull the v0 move up the lip onto the face, pull the small roof (crux) and take the left leaning flared crack to a tree anchor or walk off.

Location

Starts on the obvious lip just 10 feet left of dog pounder.

Protection

mixed, bring a small finger sized rack

Photos

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Kevin Heckeler
Upstate New York
  5.10a
Kevin Heckeler   Upstate New York
  5.10a
In the adk rock guide they say heading right is easier. The lip seemed stout hitting it directly and the right is fun, so it begs the question why anyone would want to head up the lip at the second bolt directly. With the right side ascent this eases the grade to maybe 10a, and with the rest of the route being closer to 5.8 I think it actually increases the overall experience of the climb (instead of one uber hard move in the middle of moderate climbing).

After pulling the first moves to the first bolt, you can step left a few feet to a good crack that's 5.8 if you don't want to do the 5.10 moves. Once about 15 feet up to a ledge, step right to rejoin the original bolted line to the top anchor. The top is tough for 5.8 but doable with some good jamming technique. May 15, 2012