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Routes in Stewarts Ledge

Barking Spider T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Crackatoa T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Dog Pounder S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Entertainer, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Frankenpine T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Lithium S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Nevermore T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Revolver T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Valium S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Type: Trad, 60 ft, Grade V
FA: Dave Aldous, Keith Chadwick June 1995
Page Views: 503 total, 9/month
Shared By: NYClimber on Apr 6, 2013
Admins: Jim Lawyer

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Description

We felt the start up to the 1st bolt at about 12 feet was THE spookiest move. If one takes a screamer before that first piece of pro is in - they not only hit the deck but there is like a 12-18 inch space between the wall and the deck where one could easily drop down into off the ledge and tear up your shins and legs pretty good. It is kind of more of a 'mental game' on this one that actually physically difficult.

Location

The Lower Left Wall of Pilot Knob Stewart's Ledge area, page 438 on the ADIRONDACK ROCK CLIMBER'S GUIDE by Jeremy Haas.
Solid double bolt anchors with rings at top. Great for setting up a solid top rope as well.
We rapped down.
Frankenpine is directly to the right of Lithium and directly to the right of it is a gully where one could scramble to the top pretty easily to set up top ropes and such.
NOTE: Please be careful - we climbed it in April and and saw a nest from Frankenpine of a Peregrine Falcon with 6 unhatched eggs in it with the falcon flying above us all day. PLEASE do not disturb! As I understand it - Peregrine Falcon's are on the New York State endangered species list!
The climb is almost directly inline with the 'fake pine tree' that actually is a CELL PHONE TOWER! It's quite ingenious! You can see that it is a different color than the other pine tree's and houses a light brown cell phone tower antenna near the top that is easily see from all over. We used this as out landmark to find the actual climbing wall.

Protection

Trad pro. 1 good chockstone above to loop a single runner around for bombproof pro. Also was able to get 1 small Stopper in (kind of sketchy) and because is has flaring cracks, got 3 cams in (2 BD Camalots (Sketchy) and 1 bombproof Metolius cam in.

Photos

Kevin Heckeler
Upstate New York
  5.6
Kevin Heckeler   Upstate New York
  5.6
To further clarify the route, it's between Lithium (5.10a/b) and the bolted line of The Entertainer (5.8). Wouldn't want anyone looking for a 5.6 lead getting on either of those by accident! [in the picture the rope appears to be on The Entertainer] Jul 30, 2013