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Routes in Entertainer Wall

Casual Corner T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Entertainer, The T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Funshine TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Narrowing Experience T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Sunshine T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c X
Type: Trad, TR, 50 ft
FA: FA on TR: Bob Clark June 1980 FA on lead: Chad Hussey, Sam Slater, Ken Nichols, June 1982
Page Views: 175 total, 2/month
Shared By: Joel A on Jun 27, 2011
Admins: Morgan Patterson

You & This Route


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Description

Somewhat meandering face climb left of the chimney. The business begins in the 'hole' (concavity where it gets steeper) and is fairly sustained until the top-out.

Location

10 feet or so left of the chimney, there's a small-ish corner - that's the start. Work up to the ledge, into the hole and out toward the right to top out.

Protection

Natural anchors above.

Photos

Kurtz
 
Kurtz  
 
The start of this route really isn't 5.9. A more consistent (and fun) variant is to start a few feet to the right of the smallish corner and climb straight up the face (the beginning of Funshine) and rejoin the route in the "hole".

The top rope set-up requires some gear for one of the anchors. Oct 1, 2012
Morgan Patterson   CT  
Rant welcomed... Some very important points which I wish was more openly acknowledged within our community regarding CT FA's. Aug 28, 2012
T Roper
DC,VA,NM,UT,CT,MA
T Roper   DC,VA,NM,UT,CT,MA
I have been present at some CT FAs and many I saw were not really trad climbs at all. They were free-solos where the climber placed some gear but he was in ground-fall range for the majority of the route. He did it to claim a first ascent and stroke an ego. So the old-timers (I’m an old-timer) can brag about how big their cojones are and that theirs are bigger than the new bread of climbers who climb harder than they do but “lack self-confidence” or aren’t foolish enough to put their life in jeopardy or spend the rest of their life disabled (as one first ascender from Mystic is after falling on a climb that was unprotect able.) I don’t believe that one person who led/free-soled a route once should be able to dictate that everyone that follows must be as fool hardy as they were. My thought at seeing these FAs was not “isn’t he brave.” It was “isn’t he stupid.”




I like it Brian, no argument here. nice comment. Jul 10, 2012
Brian
North Kingstown, RI
Brian   North Kingstown, RI
I can not attest to this particular FA because I wasn't there. Knowing that south face I suspect that the gear was marginal at best. I have been present at some CT FAs and many I saw were not really trad climbs at all. They were free-solos where the climber placed some gear but he was in ground-fall range for the majority of the route. He did it to claim a first ascent and stroke an ego. So the old-timers (I’m an old-timer) can brag about how big their cojones are and that theirs are bigger than the new bread of climbers who climb harder than they do but “lack self-confidence” or aren’t foolish enough to put their life in jeopardy or spend the rest of their life disabled (as one first ascender from Mystic is after falling on a climb that was unprotect able.) I don’t believe that one person who led/free-soled a route once should be able to dictate that everyone that follows must be as fool hardy as they were. My thought at seeing these FAs was not “isn’t he brave.” It was “isn’t he stupid.” Sorry for the rant. I know that is way more info than you asked for. :-) Jul 10, 2012
Morgan Patterson   CT  
Brian - How was the lead protected? Pins, bolts, hooks, gear? is it R or X or neither? Jul 10, 2012
Brian
North Kingstown, RI
Brian   North Kingstown, RI
FA on TR: Bob Clark June 1980
FA on lead: Chad Hussey, Sam Slater, Ken Nichols, June 1982 Jun 5, 2012