Type: Trad, 80 ft (24 m)
FA: Bob McGown & Larry Jennings, May 1987
Page Views: 1,191 total · 9/month
Shared By: adam winslow on May 19, 2011 · Updates
Admins: Roberta Zouain, Kristin Tippey, Micah Klesick, Nate Ball

You & This Route


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Description

This is a steep, thin face that finishes with a small finger crack. A very high quality climb by Rocky Butte standards. Shortly after leaving the belay anchor at the base of Mind Games, a 5.10 bulge needs needs to be climbed. At this point you'll be at the base of the headwall. For me the crux was the last 10' of face moves leading up to the crack. A sequence of enduro balance side-pull and crimping that left me out of gas for the easier moves after I reached the crack.

Location

Rappel from a tree anchor and the bolt at the top to a newer 2 bolt anchor about 20' from the ground. Establish an anchor and climb up and left following bolts past a bulge and finish via a small crack.

Protection

There is a single black painted hanger at the top of the cliff. Best to back it up with one of the large trees. The middle section of the climb is bolted. The beginning and end of the climb takes pro to 2".

Photos