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Routes in (8) Wizard Wall

Mind Games T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Phylynx T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 354 total · 4/month
Shared By: adam winslow on May 19, 2011
Admins: Micah Klesick, Nate Ball

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Description

This is a steep, thin face that finishes with a small finger crack. A very high quality climb by Rocky Butte standards. Probably best as a top-rope as the bolts are old with homemade hangers on them. Tim Olsen's book describes the bulge as the crux but at 6' tall I found that to be only 5.10 climbing. For me the crux was the last 10' of face moves leading up to the crack. A sequence of enduro balance side-pull and crimping that left me out of gas for the easier moves after I reached the crack.

Location

Rappel from a tree anchor and the bolt at the top to a newer 2 bolt anchor about 20' from the ground. Establish an anchor and climb up and left following bolts past a bulge and finish via a small crack.

Protection

There is a single bolt with a homemade hanger at the top. Best to back it up with one of the large trees. The first part of the climb is bolted with homemade hangers. The crack near the top takes small pro to 1 1/2".

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