All Locations > Oregon > Portland & The… > Rocky Butte > f. Wizard Wall

Phylynx

Name: Phylynx
Rating: 2.8

5.11b YDS 6c French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E3 5c British

Routes in f. Wizard Wall

L › R R › L A › Z

	Eye in the Sky S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
	Grub T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Mind Games T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Naked Savage T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
	Phylynx T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Sky Walker T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Slave Maker T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Walk on Water T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Wizard T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Order Wrong? Sort Routes

Type:	Trad, 80 ft (24 m)
FA:	Bob McGown & Larry Jennings, May 1987
Page Views:	1,191 total · 9/month
Shared By:	adam winslow on May 19, 2011 · Updates
Admins:	Roberta Zouain, Kristin Tippey, Micah Klesick, Nate Ball Page Updates (admin only)

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Description

This is a steep, thin face that finishes with a small finger crack. A very high quality climb by Rocky Butte standards. Shortly after leaving the belay anchor at the base of Mind Games, a 5.10 bulge needs needs to be climbed. At this point you'll be at the base of the headwall. For me the crux was the last 10' of face moves leading up to the crack. A sequence of enduro balance side-pull and crimping that left me out of gas for the easier moves after I reached the crack.

Location

Rappel from a tree anchor and the bolt at the top to a newer 2 bolt anchor about 20' from the ground. Establish an anchor and climb up and left following bolts past a bulge and finish via a small crack.

Protection

There is a single black painted hanger at the top of the cliff. Best to back it up with one of the large trees. The middle section of the climb is bolted. The beginning and end of the climb takes pro to 2".