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Routes in (8) Wizard Wall

Mind Games T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Phylynx T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Trad, TR, 80 ft
FA: May 28 1987, Bob McGown & Tim Olson
Page Views: 1,650 total, 19/month
Shared By: another Chad on Nov 6, 2010
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

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Description

Mind Games is one of the most unique routes at Rocky Butte. More people would climb it if it were more widely known how to access the area. Start by gaining the belay ledge, either by rappelling in or climbing up 20' from the forest floor. Ascend an easy, blocky start up to the chimney. Stem and grunt up the large flaring chimney before making a tricky exit move to the anchor.

Location

Walk along the cliff-top trail Northwest from the Video Bluff. Look for a lone Allen bolt/hanger on top of a rock at the cliff's edge. This is the access area for Mind Games.

Accessing Mind Games from the base of the wall is possible by climbing a short (roughly 20') section of easy 5th class rock and gaining the belay ledge with a belay anchor.

Protection

A full rack up to 6 inches. Protection is plentiful.

Photos

danma
Portland, Oregon
danma   Portland, Oregon
This would be a sustained endurance climb if it wasn't for the beefy ledge to rest on. The first part can be some what challenging, but once you get to the crack/chimney it gets much harder, which surprised me that it is rated at 5.10a. The route has a lot of variety and is my favorite climb amongst the trash, broken bottles, and used condoms. Oct 19, 2014
Jason Weinstein
Beaverton, Oregon
  5.10a
Jason Weinstein   Beaverton, Oregon
  5.10a
If you like off width and flaring off width you'll like this route. Very interesting and very physical near the top. Jun 2, 2014
another Chad  
 
Mind Games was recently cleaned and pruned. Now's the time to get on it! Nov 6, 2010