Under the Radar
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British
| Type: | Sport, 70 ft (21 m) |
| GPS: | 34.02551, -116.15531 |
| FA: | Bob Gaines and Patty Kline, April 2011 |
| Page Views: | 4,183 total · 23/month |
| Shared By: | Bob Gaines on Apr 27, 2011 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
Start on a ledge that is above a pit (a cam can be placed in a flake to the right for the belayer to clip into). Starting a bit to the right near the flake, move up and left to clip the first bolt, then climb thin edges (5.8) to easier slab climbing past two more bolts. Traverse right across a dike (Variation 1), then straight up a steepening friction slab past four more bolts (5.8+).
Variation 1: After the third bolt, climb up the large, right-facing flakes (larger cams).



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