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Routes in Hidden Slab

Bullseye TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Johnny Cat T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Private Eye T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rodeo Doggie S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Schandenfreude T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Secret Service T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Thomas Crapper T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Under the Radar S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Bob Gaines and Patty Kline, April 2011
Page Views: 1,833 total, 23/month
Shared By: Bob Gaines on Apr 27, 2011
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

The second route from the left of four bolted routes.

Start a bit to the right, moving left to clip the first bolt, then climb thin edges (5.8) to easier slab climbing past 2 more Bolts. Traverse right across a dike, then straight up a steepening friction slab past 4 more bolts (5.8).

The rock is grainy, but improving with every ascent.

Protection

7 bolts, 2-bolt anchor, 70 ft.
Rob Stahl
San Diego, CA
  5.8 PG13
Rob Stahl   San Diego, CA
  5.8 PG13
Led this on 11/9/2014 with Robert Fonda. It was a lot of fun smearing. It has cleaned up a lot since I did after the Gordo Fest. All these routes are mostly in the shade this time year, and it was really comfortable. I did think the glued ring was odd, but I figured it was due to rock quality. REally convient and fun place to climb. Approach from the south and you can avoid some boulder hopping. Nov 10, 2014
Bob Gaines  
 
Hi Susan. The reason for the glue-in anchor bolts: the rock is really bad at the spot I wanted the anchor. After I hand-drilled the holes I could slip the bolts in and out with my fingers....the glue-ins solved the problem, and they seem to be holding up well. Mar 22, 2014
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
 
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
 
I thought the first two bolts were pseudo-difficult on pretty vertical rock. For sure eases on the upper 2/3 but great warm up to get your slab feet under you. Another great anchor placement on a safe ledge makes for easy pulls and cleaning. But glue-in's which I though was odd for the area and FA team. Solid though. Mar 18, 2014
Gavin Bridgeman
Tustin, California
 
Gavin Bridgeman   Tustin, California
 
Excellent slab climb that has fun movement. Mar 8, 2014
Adam Stackhouse    
  5.8
The bottom crux is edgy and crimpy, whereas the crux at the top is palmy and smeary. Good route, well protected and solid for this 5.8 toproper.

EDIT: Starting directly under the first bolt is edgy and crimpy, starting to the right is more typical of the route. Apr 23, 2012
Mary Moser
Joshua Tree, CA
Mary Moser   Joshua Tree, CA
Led this route last Saturday and it was surprisingly fun and very clean. My friend Cate was thrilled to do this on lead as an onsight! May 18, 2011
toddgordon Gordon
Joshua Tree, California
 
toddgordon Gordon   Joshua Tree, California
 
Another good route, which will clean up to be a well traveled and enjoyed route. Bob does it again.... Apr 28, 2011