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Routes in Velcro Wall

Acid Crack T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Bolted Route S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tour de Platte T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13
Type: Sport, 300 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,261 total, 28/month
Shared By: Brian Kalet on Apr 17, 2011
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

The Bolted Route is the most southern route on the Velcro Wall on the west face of Sheeprock's summit dome. The lower pitch is the hardest and the crux is found between the 4th and 6th bolts. The entire route is composed of a granite slab with very small but abundant holds.

Location

The Bolted Route is just north of the large dihedral on the Velcro Wall & just south of Acid Crack.

Protection

The route can be done in a single pitch with a 70m rope or two pitches with a 60m rope. Ten quickdraws are required if doing a single pitch. 6 are required if breaking the climb into two pitches. There is an intermediate rappel station after the 6th bolt and an upper rappel station. If you want to climb to the summit, untie from the rope and scramble up easy 4th class terrain or belay your partner from the upper rappel station. A 60 m rope is sufficient to reach the summit from the upper rappel station. When rappelling, a 70 m rope will get you from the upper rappel station to the intermediate rappel station, but a 60 m rope will land you one bolt shy of the intermediate rappel station.
Michael Hurth
Golden, CO
 
Michael Hurth   Golden, CO
 
It felt harder that 5.7 to me (likely due to my broken slab climbing abilities). Was at least harder than anything on Fractured Fairytales below. Sep 17, 2016
Daniel H. Bryant
Colorado Springs, CO
5.7
Daniel H. Bryant   Colorado Springs, CO
5.7
@ Albers,
I deleted the post, my kung-fu at the time was weak. Oct 4, 2015
J. Albers
Colorado
  5.6
J. Albers   Colorado
  5.6
@ Daniel ^^^

I certainly understand your sentiment regarding the lack of holds and feeling of desperation (some of my scariest moments in climbing have been run out on pure friction). Still, sorry to be the bearer of bad news, but the combination of low angle climbing and abundant friction on this section of wall negates the need for any holds at all if you have your friction game dialed. When I did this pitch last fall (2014), I thought the route was about 5.6. I don't say that to be a sandbagger or a jerk, rather I am basing it on the fact that I have done a lot of friction slab and in my experience, 5.8/5.9 are the grades where the climbing starts to feel more "faith based" than you feel on this thing. Luckily this thing is pretty decently bolted, so it's a good route to work on your friction mojo. Sep 9, 2015
a Ball
Boulder, CO
a Ball   Boulder, CO
Would a 65 meter rope be sufficient to rappel down the rap route?

Recently had to chop just less than 5m off my 70. Nov 19, 2013