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Routes in Jumbled Buttress

Bravery T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Courage T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Jazz in the Park T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
War on Peace, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 549 total, 7/month
Shared By: TylerVaughan Vaughan on Apr 12, 2011
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This climb take a little bushwhacking to get to but offers decent climbing on good rock. It is listed in the Rifle Mountain Park book as on of the obscurities on the Jumbled Buttress. It is listed at 5.10, but that might be a bit soft. When climbed in Fall 2010, the upper hand crack that isn't shown in the picture was really sandy.

Location

You have to cut across the creek and scurry up to the base of the climb.

Protection

Medium gear.

Photos

Michael Schneiter
Glenwood Springs, CO
 
Michael Schneiter   Glenwood Springs, CO
 
A word of warning: this climb is in rough shape currently, even by No Name Canyon standards. The base has a bunch of poison ivy although you can traverse into the first pitch from the left and avoid it. The first pitch is super dirty and much more so than I ever remember it being. The second pitch is even dirtier, and it appears that a large block may have come off the second pitch, offering an explanation for some of that filth. Needs some loving with a broom, or a whole army of brooms!

Also, I remember the second pitch being awkward and hard, but it may be more like 5.10 than 5.9, or at least 5.9+ (wink wink). Again, just a word of warning if you're looking for a "5.9" climb. May 17, 2017
Michael Schneiter
Glenwood Springs, CO
 
Michael Schneiter   Glenwood Springs, CO
 
Continue for two more pitches above this pitch for a good little adventure, topping out the granite. May 7, 2012
Jason Kaplan
Glenwood ,Co
  5.9+
Jason Kaplan   Glenwood ,Co
  5.9+
Ha, you call sloper liebacking stylish.... Onsighted this today and no sloper liebacking. Good gear, great jams, would probly be my favorite route at No Name with some broom action and topping it out. So good, compared to my onsight attempt on Lone Pine yesterday, this was a cruise. May 6, 2012
I onsight this with Tyler, and I though it a tough climb. Granted styled the offwidth with sloper lieback not a beached whale thrutch past the crux.
lol May 3, 2011