The War on Peace
5.7 YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British
Type: | Trad, 400 ft (121 m), 4 pitches, Grade II |
FA: | unknown, surely climbed by someone long before |
Page Views: | 1,667 total · 15/month |
Shared By: | Michael Schneiter on Mar 29, 2016 · Updates |
Admins: | Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Description
Pitch 2 (5.6). Move belay up and to the right, at the base of a corner that turns slabby. Climb up the corner, step left, and belay at a good ledge with a bunch of scrub oak, or you can continue up the corner via a wide crack, combining pitch 2 with pitch 3.
Pitch 3 (5.5). Climb up the crack on the face and onto a good ledge with a bunch of big blocks and some pine trees. It’s best to establish a belay at the top of this large ledge.
Pitch 4 (5.6). Climb up and right, looking for a blue stopper hammered into a slot. Climb up slabs, with a bolt in the middle, aiming for the topmost slab that angles up and left with a steep wall above. Move up and left on this slab until you can top out the granite with a bolt protecting the final move. Belay on a big ledge with scrub oak and a two bolt anchor.
Descent: Rappel route with 70 meter rope. Rappel from top two pitches and then use the rappel anchor for The Journey. First, make a 35 meter rappel from top pitch to the blocky ledge. Scramble down to the two bolt anchor at the top of pitch 3. Rappel 30 meters to base of pitch 2. Rappel 35 meters from top of The Journey. Or, scramble up and left and to gain the large grassy terrace and then go north to the large pine tree, where a bolted rappel route is found below the tree. Alternatively, you can also scramble south via scree back to the base (not recommended).
Location
Almost directly across the creek from the Beginner Slab, look for the broken pieces of the old aqueduct now on the ground, a large beam is attached to a bolt hanging downward. Climb flake features up and slightly to the left of the beam. The start of the route is in a large corner with the previously mentioned flake feature to the right of that corner, providing a great start to the climb.
Approach: to get there, it's easiest to cross No Name Creek if the water levels allow. You can hike down to the creek from a point just upstream from the Beginner Slab, at a large pine tree. Depending on conditions, you can cross No Name Creek by hopping across rocks or at times a log will find purchase and allow for a natural bridge. Be careful for fast moving water in late spring and summer during runoff. If water conditions don't allow a safe or convenient crossing, go on the trail/road to the Poison Ivy Wall, and then descend into No Name Creek and to the base of the route.
Per Ty Geist: the aqueduct was taken out by rockfall. The broken metal and wood remains are very clearly in the boulderfield across from the beginner slab. There is a hairy looking beam that points right down at the belay location, at this time it can shift slightly left and right, but there is a massive bolt going through it with a nut securely holding it in place.
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