The War on Peace
Avg: 2 from 3 votes
|Type:||Trad, 400 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II|
|FA:||unknown, surely climbed by someone long before|
|Page Views:||335 total, 16/month|
|Shared By:||Michael Schneiter on Mar 29, 2016|
|Admins:||Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionPitch 1 (5.7). Climb the flake feature underneath the aqueduct, go underneath the aqueduct, and move slightly left to gain the next flake feature. Top out on a ledge with a pine tree and a 2 bolt anchor on the reddish wall.
Pitch 2 (5.6). Move belay up and to the right, at the base of a corner that turns slabby. Climb up the corner, step left, and belay at a good ledge with a bunch of scrub oak, or you can continue up the corner via a wide crack, combining pitch 2 with pitch 3.
Pitch 3 (5.5). Climb up the crack on the face and onto a good ledge with a bunch of big blocks and some pine trees. It’s best to establish a belay at the top of this large ledge.
Pitch 4 (5.6). Climb up and right, looking for a blue stopper hammered into a slot. Climb up slabs, with a bolt in the middle, aiming for the topmost slab that angles up and left with a steep wall above. Move up and left on this slab until you can top out the granite with a bolt protecting the final move. Belay on a big ledge with scrub oak and a two bolt anchor.
Descent: Rappel route with 70 meter rope. Rappel from top two pitches and then use the rappel anchor for The Journey. First, make a 35 meter rappel from top pitch to the blocky ledge. Scramble down to the two bolt anchor at the top of pitch 3. Rappel 30 meters to base of pitch 2. Rappel 35 meters from top of The Journey. Or, scramble up and left and to gain the large grassy terrace and then go north to the large pine tree, where a bolted rappel route is found below the tree. Alternatively, you can also scramble south via scree back to the base (not recommended).
LocationAlmost directly across the creek from the Beginner Sla, look for the section of old aqueduct that is still in place and in reasonably good shape. Climb flake features above and below the aqueduct. The start of the route is in a large corner with the previously mentioned flake feature to the right of that corner, providing a great start to the climb.
Approach: to get there, it's easiest to cross No Name Creek if the water levels allow. You can hike down to the creek from a point just upstream from the Beginner Slab, at a large pine tree. Depending on conditions, you can cross No Name Creek by hopping across rocks or at times a log will find purchase and allow for a natural bridge. Be careful for fast moving water in late spring and summer during runoff. If water conditions don't allow a safe or convenient crossing, go on the trail/road to the Poison Ivy Wall, and then descend into No Name Creek and to the base of the route.