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The Dodgy Vixen
5.12a YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British
Avg: 2.3 from 6
votes
Early Access
Routes in H. Waterfall & Overview
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Awakening S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Blaupunkt S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Cold Ass Honkies S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Dodgy Vixen, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Hair Nation T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Honky Tonk Heroes S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Honky Tonk Man S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Hysteria S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Power Grip (AKA Whose Idea Was This?) T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Red Pill, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Shadows and Dust S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Sportklettern S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Totally High Maintenance S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Variation to Hysteria S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
| Type: | Sport, 120 ft (36 m) |
| GPS: | 37.31829, -107.83598 |
| FA: | T. Kuss |
| Page Views: | 944 total · 5/month |
| Shared By: | Tim Kuss on Apr 6, 2011 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Description
Like the dodgy vixen we all know, this leads you to believe that it's going to be easy and sweet. Then it starts getting kind of gnarly and then really friken' difficult. Start by liebacking the gamble oak leaning against the lip of the cave. Hop on the rock clipping bolts across the slab and up the corner/arete (use a long sling on the fourth bolt). Traverse the ledge right, to the obvious bolt line, (long slings on fifth and eighth bolts) through soft huecos and a big overhang and headwall.
Location
50 feet left of the waterfall, look for the big gamble oak leaning against the lip of the cave. This shares the start (first four bolts) with Hysteria and Totally High Maintenance.
Protection
Twelve bolts. Bring three long slings for the fourth, fifth, and eighth bolts to reduce rope drag. There are fixed anchor with biners for lowering. There are security cameras afixed on the anchor to catch biner thieves (slow death penalty). If you take biners 'cause they're worn out, leave your own then.
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