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Routes in Overview & Waterfall

Awakening S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Blaupunkt S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Cold Ass Honkies S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Dodgy Vixen, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Hair Nation T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Hysteria S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Sportklettern S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Totally High Maintenance S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Variation to Hysteria S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Ben Kiessel & Matt King
Page Views: 377 total, 7/month
Shared By: OAW King on May 25, 2013
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

Start off the berm just off the trail. The first bolt has to be stick clipped. There are no holds to climb into the first bolt from the ground. After clipping the first bolt, start just below the bolt with your feet on two good features. From there, follow incredible, grippy, patina features straight up past 6 bolts to a two bolt chain anchor just below an overhaning cap rock.

There is a new stick clip attached to the large pine tree on the downhill side. Please keep this in that area. Thanks!

Location

This is on the left side of the Waterfall and Overlook areas, just eight feet to the left of the unnamed drilled piton route before you get to "The Matrix" (Marcus Garcia). Walk up the burm to the left of the trail to access both these routes.

Protection

Quickdraws.

Photos

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Ben Kiessel
  5.11c
Ben Kiessel  
  5.11c
I think in this case nothing would be taken away from future generations of climbers by bolting on a hold so it could be climbed from the ground. It's just a shitty sport route on chossy rock.
Plus it would be so much cooler from the ground! Aug 20, 2013
Wasn't a fan of this route at first due to the contrived start of the climb. After climbing it 4 times, I like it. It is probably not harder than .11c, but do not expect a single move easier than 5.11c, very sustained and good climbing.

Also, I will be honest in saying I am all for 'enhancing' 1 or 2 holds to be able to climb this from the ground, it's not missing much. Thoughts? If you haven't climbed this route yet, I don't care what your thoughts are. Aug 20, 2013
OAW King  
 
Thanks, sir! Nice send! May 28, 2013
Ben Kiessel
  5.11c
Ben Kiessel  
  5.11c
This route is pretty fun!
Good find, Matt! May 27, 2013