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Routes in Overview & Waterfall

Awakening S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Blaupunkt S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Cold Ass Honkies S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Dodgy Vixen, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Hair Nation T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Hysteria S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Sportklettern S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Totally High Maintenance S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Variation to Hysteria S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: T. Kuss
Page Views: 94 total, 1/month
Shared By: Tim Kuss on Jun 14, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

Climb the gamble oak leaning against the rock to start. Four bolts protect the traversing slab and arete/corner. Continue from the ledge up the techy slab into the shallow corner (hard) and water streak. This shares first four bolts and anchor with "Totally High Maintenance" which forks off right from ledge.

Location

This is 50 feet left of waterfall - start on a tree. Lower from anchor 30m.

Protection

Twelve bolts.

Photos

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Really good route, thin and technical, I think the rating is right on. Good find. Aug 20, 2013
ozman
CO / NM
ozman   CO / NM
Tim, what is the route name that starts just left of the broken off oak tree? It starts right off the ground with a tough bouldery move (12aish), then traverses left under a roof for 10m then straight up to a two bolt anchor on a ledge. There is a bolt line that we followed, but we did not start off of a tree. It is located left of the broken off tree, but right of the oak leaning against the wall. For the second pitch, I think we did Totally High Maintenance. We followed a bolt line that went through the huecos (10+ish). These were two of the best pitches at East A if you ask me. I'd put them at a strong 4 stars. Jun 13, 2011
Tim Kuss
Durango, CO
 
Tim Kuss   Durango, CO
 
It might be quite a bit harder than .12b.... 'Bout time for someone else to get on it? C'mon, man! Apr 6, 2011
Tim Kuss
Durango, CO
 
Tim Kuss   Durango, CO
 
This route is among the best in the area. Jun 14, 2009