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Routes in Little Wing Area

Andy Devine T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
He Can't Shout, Don't Hear You T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Honor thy Father T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
L.D. Getaway T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Leisure Time T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Little Wing T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Riddler, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Scuz Ball T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Squeeze-n-Tease T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Rick Cashner and Angi Morales (Sept '77)
Page Views: 252 total · 3/month
Shared By: Bryan G on Feb 8, 2011
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15 Details

Description [Suggest Change]

Scuz Ball, Squeeze-n-Tease, L.D. Getaway, and Andy Devine are located (in that order, from left to right) on an unnamed cliff a couple hundred feet uphill and west of the main Little Wing formation. All of these routes are of mediocre quality, usually featuring some good climbing mixed with some not-so-good climbing. If you want a cliff with sunny moderates and zero crowds, this isn't a bad choice. There are rap slings on a tree above Andy Devine, which is the easiest way to descend.
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Near the center of the formation is an obvious splitter up a headwall. Below this is a large slab/ledge. Start to the right up a short crack to gain the ledge. Continue up the slab to the left to reach the base of a perfect handcrack. This section is really fun; if it went on 5 times longer this route would be a classic. Steep hand jams leads to easier climbing up a corner.

Protection [Suggest Change]

Pro to 4"

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