Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Rick Cashner and Angi Morales (Sept '77)
Page Views: 266 total · 3/month
Shared By: Bryan G on Feb 8, 2011
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions Details

Description

Scuz Ball, Squeeze-n-Tease, L.D. Getaway, and Andy Devine are located (in that order, from left to right) on an unnamed cliff a couple hundred feet uphill and west of the main Little Wing formation. All of these routes are of mediocre quality, usually featuring some good climbing mixed with some not-so-good climbing. If you want a cliff with sunny moderates and zero crowds, this isn't a bad choice. There are rap slings on a tree above Andy Devine, which is the easiest way to descend.
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Near the center of the formation is an obvious splitter up a headwall. Below this is a large slab/ledge. Start to the right up a short crack to gain the ledge. Continue up the slab to the left to reach the base of a perfect handcrack. This section is really fun; if it went on 5 times longer this route would be a classic. Steep hand jams leads to easier climbing up a corner.

Protection

Pro to 4"

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