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Routes in Little Wing Area

Andy Devine T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
He Can't Shout, Don't Hear You T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Honor thy Father T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
L.D. Getaway T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Leisure Time T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Little Wing T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Riddler, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Scuz Ball T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Squeeze-n-Tease T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Bruce Pollock, Matt Pollock, Mark Chapman, and Charlie Porter (Jan '74)
Page Views: 886 total, 7/month
Shared By: Sirius on Oct 12, 2007
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

The line of the Riddler can't be missed from the base of Little Wing: a wild, curled flake bends and overlaps the cliff face, creating a striking flared chimney that rises 80 ft to top out on a flat ledge. Gain this intimidating feature after 15 ft of steep and protected face climbing to find good protection and sound jams in the back of the chimney. Fight your way up to a bolted anchor with rap rings on top.

This climb can either be a grunter or a silky smooth ascent, depending on your technique. Either way, it's an excellent and safe opportunity to gain experience with that classic Yosemite genre: the chimney/squeeze.

Location

Traverse right along the base of Little Wing cliff; eventually you'll emerge onto a small, semi-exposed platform at the far right (east) end of the cliff. Honor Thy Father, Leisure Time, The Riddler, and Little Wing all begin from this platform. The Riddler starts up steep, bouldery moves and enters the obvious chimney feature.

Protection

Small to 3". In spite of its wide aspect, this climb protects very well.

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