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Routes in Little Wing Area

Andy Devine T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
He Can't Shout, Don't Hear You T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Honor thy Father T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
L.D. Getaway T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Leisure Time T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Little Wing T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Riddler, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Scuz Ball T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Squeeze-n-Tease T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Mark Chapman, Charlie Porter, and Bruce Pollock - January 1974
Page Views: 1,095 total · 8/month
Shared By: Blitzo on Oct 24, 2006
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions Details

Description

This is a great thin line. The crux is down low Passing a rooflet and a small left facing section. You are on your tips here and the feet are small and slick. Continue up and to the left. Some parties rappel from slings around a block and/or horn, and some traverse over to the anchor bolts on top of the Riddler/Leisure Time to rap. An excellent pitch well worth the time to hike there.

Protection

Bring the small half of your rack and double it. Slings may be useful.

Location

Right side of the cliff next to a bay tree.

Photos

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Sirius
Oakland, CA
Sirius   Oakland, CA
In your face right off the deck, this is the beautiful THIN crack on the right side of the cliff (there are several beauties over there) and has an intimidating feel given its position at the end of a thin, exposed ledge. Be sure to anchor the belayer, an idea that'll seem obvious when you stand at the start. A stiff route of great quality in a usually quiet and peaceful setting. Jul 9, 2007
Alexey Zelditch
San Jose
Alexey Zelditch   San Jose
Just below the low crux there is rattling hand jam. The rock probably do not fall out of the crack for the long time, but this section ( about one feet) not good for pro Apr 20, 2010
Lucas Barth
Yosemite, CA
Lucas Barth   Yosemite, CA
Superb route, awesome burly valley climbing, but varied and more face features than your typical route, good rests. Offsets useful, mostly nothing bigger than a .5 camalot. I would just bring single .75-3, and doubles below down to grey metolius size, with a few extra offsets in the .2-.3 size. May 13, 2018

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