Avg: 1.7 from 6 votes
|Type:||Trad, 150 ft (45 m), 2 pitches, Grade II|
|FA:||R. Ingraham and H. Davis, 1958|
|Page Views:||1,115 total · 9/month|
|Shared By:||Robert Cort on Jan 17, 2011|
|Admins:||Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski|
Note: I originally posted this route as Easy 5th, but have been convinced that the rating may be soft, so I upped it to 5.4 (isn't 5.4 low 5th?), but I digress...
Pitch 1: Best to belay from a ledge up and left of the saddle. Climb along the left edge of the slab below the roof in the picture. Once past the roof, look for a rap station on a small tree which can be used as an anchor point. Most of the pitch is in low fifth range, with one move around 5.4 or so near the middle.
Coil rope and scramble, first to the right continuing in the same groove you have climbed in. Once a way opens upward, take it. Head right toward the left side of a short buttress sticking up prominently on the right. Go up the corner left of it and up and left to a large ledge below a head wall.
Pitch 2: The Normal Route turns the head wall on the left. From a belay on the left end of the ledge, walk along the bottom of the wall toward a bush. Squeeze through between the bush and the wall. Continue traversing left to a large boulder separated from the wall by an off-width. Climb the boulder left of this crack. (Protect with #3 Camalot or larger cam.) From the top of the boulder, step over to the grassy ramp (quite dirty). Follow the ramp to a rap station or set up belay short of that at a tree.
The head wall can be climbed instead (about 5.8). To do so, go up the sickle-shaped crack on the right of the big grassy ledge to a horizontal crack. Traverse left for quite a bit to a short, vertical crack in the top part of the wall, and go up it.
To scramble to the top, follow the ramp, step up as you do this, and then take to the slab on the left with a crack in it. Scramble up to the top from there.
This last scramble will need to be done in reverse going down, or you will need to set up your own rap station. There are three raps back down to the saddle below Lesser Spire. A tree at the bottom of the large ledge (station #2) is the only rap station not mentioned so far.
All in all, the Normal Route up Lesser Spire is still a remarkably easy route up a seriously impressive peak. Definitely worth it.