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Routes in Lesser Spire

Cacahuate T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a A1-
Losleben's Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Normal Route T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
West Face of Lesser Spire T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 500 ft, 5 pitches
FA: FFA Glen Banks and Paul Seibert, mid 70s
Page Views: 371 total, 6/month
Shared By: Karl Kiser on Dec 10, 2012
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Placement of bolts/fixed anchors is prohibited in Wilderness Study Areas Details

Description

p1: go up the large crack, past the bolts (typically aided so 5.8 A1) and then a bit more (the squeeze) to a stance on the right (longer pitch).
p2: go up then left and wander a bit looking for a stance to the right of the old eagle's nest.
p3: go left near the eagle's nest, up a steep head wall then right to a corner and stance on the north face.
p4: this is primarily a long traverse left and up the upper north face of Lesser Spire, staying below the major roofs above.
p5: finish up by climbing up and right to a rap station a bit below the true Lesser Spire summit.

Location

The route is the chimney just left of the clean buttress on the west face of Lesser Spire. Rap and down climb on the north face of the formation.

Protection

Standard trad rack with bolts on the first pitch. Better to bring a bolt kit and replace the old 1/4" bolts.

Photos

Dan Carter
Las Cruces, NM
Dan Carter   Las Cruces, NM
I climbed part of this route today. I only made it up to the bolts on the first pitch. The large crack/chimney is really fun and clean rock. It protects fairly well, with cams and natural chock stones, up until the bolts. I guess that's why they are there. There is one section that would be good to have something bigger than an old BD #5. There is an old piton and about 4 or 5 rusty, 1/4 inch bolts at an overhanging off-width section. I didn't go past this because I didn't have big enough gear and would not trust the old bolts. It looked like it was probably 5.10 off-width and run out without big gear. The crack was too big for an older Black Diamond #5 (bigger than the new ones). I want to go back with bigger cams or big bros and finish the rock. Re-bolting with a new bolt in the middle of the old ones, would be a good addition. May 14, 2013