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Routes in Lesser Spire

Cacahuate T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a A0
Fissura del Cielo T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Losleben's Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Normal Route T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
West Face of Lesser Spire T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, Aid, 450 ft, 4 pitches
FA: Ed Ward, Mark Motes, Karl Kiser, Cathy Dunn
Page Views: 730 total · 5/month
Shared By: Aaron Hobson on Mar 15, 2007
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Access Issue: Placement of bolts/fixed anchors is prohibited in Wilderness Study Areas Details

Description

The first pitch is the crux and climbs up to an old bolt anad fixed wire in a small crack/bulge about twenty feet off the ground. After pulling the bulge, continue up the ramp as it steepens and narrows. A two-bolt belay is reached by a large tree. Pitch two is an easy 5.4 traverse to the left, following a clean wide crack around the corner and then a short ledge system to a good belay stance by a bush. Pitch 3 feels sllightly run-out and climbs up and right past a vegetated crack to a nice hand crack in a nlock. Belay on top of the block. Pitch 4 starts with an aid-step onto an old button head. Carefully stepping up onto this and balancing to full extension gains a horizontal edge. Hand traverse left (5.9) for about 12 feet with wild exposure until you can stand on ledge. Continue traversing left for another 15 ft, then do a scary mantle (5.8) to gain a discontinuous crack system and easier climbing to the top.

Location

Located about 100 ft below the saddle between ORP and Lesser Spire, and easily identified by the fixed wire 20ft up. The descent can be made by 4th class scrambling to the NW and then bushwhacking back around, or by 4th class scrambling down the east side to a single-rope rappel off a block. After this rappel, you can either scramble east around a rock spur, or scramble down an easy but chossy gulley which lands you directly on the saddle between ORP and Lesser Spire.

Protection

Big pieces really aren't required for this route unless you want to protect the 5.4 traverse on P2. A hidden fixed pin is found 10 ft into the first pitch below the fixed wire/bolt. The belay at the end of P2 is by slinging a chockstone so long runners are helpful. A fixed wire may still be in place in the hand-crack of P3. P4 is the most comitting pitch to lead, as it is very strenous to place gear while on the hand traverse.

Photos

Aaron Hobson
Clinton, TN
 
Aaron Hobson   Clinton, TN
 
Wasn't sure as to the name of this route, although a great description of it was provided to Charlie by his friend Dave Lucas. Charlie thinks the aid move could go free but he didn't send it on this day. Mar 16, 2007
Cacahuate 5.10-
FA Edmund Ward, Mark Motes, Karl Kiser and Cathy Dunn. Mar 22, 2007
Andrea Campanella
Idyllwild
 
Andrea Campanella   Idyllwild
 
Climbed this route with Nate Fry. Excellent rock. The bulge at the start is hard as well as a final move to get to the anchors of pitch 1. The traverse on pitch 4 is tough, hard to protect and dangerous in case of a fall. Very glad my partner Nate lead it. Apr 23, 2012
Karl R. Kiser
  5.10- A0
Karl R. Kiser  
  5.10- A0
Edmund Ward and Steve Wondzell did the first pitch. Later Edmund Ward, Cathy Dunn and I finished the FA. Edmund did the top free but Cathy and I just pulled up on the bolt before the hand traverse (it was late in the day and windy). Edmund returned to the climb and found a 5.9 ish crack system to straighten the route a bit. Part of this variation needs wide gear and their may be loose block in the crack system still. Feb 15, 2018

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